Well I am on the third attempt to seal a leak that originates in one
of
 the
    screw holes.  I tried the permatex blue thread locker but it did not
 work.
    This time I drown the screw in red rtv so will see on tuesday if it
 leaks
    again.

    Joe Berki
    Limo EZ

    Joe get some of this stuff and try it.
    It is almost as thin as water so it should
    flow along the threads.


    Paul Lamar


  Dear Guy,
  Please note that standard RTV is usually VMQ, normal silicone, VMQ  is
not
  resistant to fuel and oil... If you need to seal something you need to
use
  FVMQ, which is Fluorosilicone, it is much more expensive but it is
 reliable.

  P.S. I run a manufacture plant that makes Automotive and Aerospace
 elastomer
  seals

  Roderick Scotto

  Yes. I am aware of that.
  This is engine coolant we are sealing and not fuel or oil.
  We use Teflon encapsulated silicone O-rings to seal the combustion
  chamber which is subject to oil and fuel.

  Paul Lamar


 Paul,

 It looked like it held pressure for a while.  I started at 60psi at 5:00pm
 est yesterday and now it is at 43 psi.5:16 est.  The bolts are stainless.
 Would that be a contributing factor since very little things stick to
 stainless.  I am planning on going to Akron to the distributor for the 422
 stuff and see if that works.

 Joe Berki
 Limo EZ

 Stuff sticks to stainless better than aluminum.
 Set up the rotor housing with the p-port down.
 Clean the screws.
 Place the low viscosity silicone liquid around the screw
 threads. Take the pressure up to 30 psi and then
 let it fall back to atmos. Wait 24 hours to let it cure
 and then pressure test it again.

 The threads in the aluminum probably have an oxide coating
 already so it would not hurt to convert them as well.
 Use this prep kit to do that.

 Paul Lamar



Paul,

From what you stated below, do I remove the sideplates with gauge and port,
clean screws, apply sealant, re seal side plates, run up to 30psi, bleed to
atmospheric, wait 24, then test?

Joe Berki
Limo EZ

Leave the side plates stuck. Just remove the screws
and clean them. You can convert the threads from inside.


Paul Lamar

Joe,

FWIW, I used Ultra Grey on my p-ports and still had to re-do a couple of the
plates.  I got them stopped by filling the inner cavities where the SS tube
passes through the water jacket with Ultra Grey.  I also had two small leaks
from around the screw heads that didn't show up until after I ran the
engine.  I counter-sunk the holes and used small o-rings and button-head
screws on the two that were leaking.  No leaks since.

Mark S.