Well, nothing seems to work.  I discussed O rings between the
  sealplate and the housing with a mechanical designer at work. He did
  not think it would work.  The holes drilled in the top are on a V
  edge which complicates the sealing.  Those holes should be on a flat
  section.  Even then an O ring is not the optimum solution.  I will
  try again with a different combination and report back.  What is the
  disadvantage of just sealing off where the tubes are with JB weld?
   Even if you test it with air, after a couple of runs on the motor
  it could leak.  Alternative engines are not a great confidence
  builder don't want to worry about leaks too. Joe Berki Limo EZ

  Take it apart and take some more pictures.
  I'll see what I can come up with.

  One way is sand off some of the anodize on the inner cover
  and weld on a short section of 2 inch .065 wall alloy
  tube. Do away with the thick inner flange.

  Then connect the two with hose and hose clamps.

  That way you can use the stock 1/4-20 bolts.
  and the stock seal plate set up.

  Paul Lamar

  The story continues as I have tried numerous combinations to get the
  seal plates sealed.

  I am attempting another try as I am writing this.  I have no idea
  where it is leaking.  I re designed the bracket to the slide
  throttle so I could incorporate an O ring seal from the tube to the
  slide throttle.

  It seems that the soap bubble method does not always give an
  indication of leakage but the pressure gauge indicates drop in pressure.

  The latest attempt involved removal of the RTV and JB weld from the
outside
  after the seal plate was removed and spraying the silicone conformal
  coat on first.  I need to get a fresh tube of red RTV to rule out
  that the stuff I was using was bad.  I did manage to coat the inside
  between the screw holes and the tube with JB weld but did not fill
  the entire cavity.

  I keep you posted

  Joe Berki
  Limo EZ

  I don't see any rubber inner tubes on those side pressure test
  plates. Are you sure the leak is not there? Don't use bolts to hold
  them on. Use large C clamps. The bolts are just another place to
  have leaks. Also use 1/2 inch thick plate. That looks like 3/8th.
  Not stiff enough for 50 psi.

  I think you need to start over.
  Don't use the same bolts and spacers to hold down the sealing
  block for the slide throttle flange. Use different bolts
  taped into the sealing plate if necessary or do as I suggest
  and weld the inner cover of the slide throttle to short aluminum
  tubes and use hose and hose clamps to connect the slide throttle to the
  engine.

  The silicone conformal coating is for the threads on the 1/4 28
  bolts only. JB Weld will not stick to aluminum unless the
  conversion kit is used and the instructions are followed
  closely.

  Don't try to get creative here. These details are important. I spent
  months developing this process.

  Paul Lamar


  Hi Joe,
Before you get all excited doing things, find out exactly where the
pressure
is going. Paul may be on to it with how are the plates sealed to the
housing.
I would get a wash tub, cattle trough, the bath tub or the kitchen sink
when
Ma Kettle is not watching so you can submerge the whole area under soapy
water. Dish soap works good. With it submerged, you will be able to see
exactly where the air is escaping. Maybe the tire shop would let you use
their
tank. No soap but should be able to see the bubbles.

Dale Davies


Paul,

I guess I forgot about the innertube thing.  I used 3/8" al plate and bolts
and RTV to seal everything.  Guess I will have to go thicker.

I think I may have a  tub for total emersion.

Thanks guys

Joe Berki
Limo EZ