Well, nothing seems to work.  I discussed O rings between the
 sealplate and the housing with a mechanical designer at work. He did
 not think it would work.  The holes drilled in the top are on a V
 edge which complicates the sealing.  Those holes should be on a flat
 section.  Even then an O ring is not the optimum solution.  I will
 try again with a different combination and report back.  What is the
 disadvantage of just sealing off where the tubes are with JB weld?
Even if you test it with air, after a couple of runs on the motor
 it could leak.  Alternative engines are not a great confidence
 builder don't want to worry about leaks too. Joe Berki Limo EZ

 Take it apart and take some more pictures.
 I'll see what I can come up with.

 One way is sand off some of the anodize on the inner cover
 and weld on a short section of 2 inch .065 wall alloy
 tube. Do away with the thick inner flange.

 Then connect the two with hose and hose clamps.

 That way you can use the stock 1/4-20 bolts.
 and the stock seal plate set up.

 Paul Lamar

 The story continues as I have tried numerous combinations to get the
 seal plates sealed.

 I am attempting another try as I am writing this.  I have no idea
 where it is leaking.  I re designed the bracket to the slide
 throttle so I could incorporate an O ring seal from the tube to the
 slide throttle.

 It seems that the soap bubble method does not always give an
 indication of leakage but the pressure gauge indicates drop in
pressure.

 The latest attempt involved removal of the RTV and JB weld from the
 outside
 after the seal plate was removed and spraying the silicone conformal
 coat on first.  I need to get a fresh tube of red RTV to rule out
 that the stuff I was using was bad.  I did manage to coat the inside
 between the screw holes and the tube with JB weld but did not fill
 the entire cavity.

 I keep you posted

 Joe Berki
 Limo EZ

 I don't see any rubber inner tubes on those side pressure test
 plates. Are you sure the leak is not there? Don't use bolts to hold
 them on. Use large C clamps. The bolts are just another place to
 have leaks. Also use 1/2 inch thick plate. That looks like 3/8th.
 Not stiff enough for 50 psi.

 I think you need to start over.
 Don't use the same bolts and spacers to hold down the sealing
 block for the slide throttle flange. Use different bolts
 taped into the sealing plate if necessary or do as I suggest
 and weld the inner cover of the slide throttle to short aluminum
 tubes and use hose and hose clamps to connect the slide throttle to
the
 engine.

 The silicone conformal coating is for the threads on the 1/4 28
 bolts only. JB Weld will not stick to aluminum unless the
 conversion kit is used and the instructions are followed
 closely.

 Don't try to get creative here. These details are important. I spent
 months developing this process.

 Paul Lamar


 Hi Joe,
Before you get all excited doing things, find out exactly where the
 pressure
is going. Paul may be on to it with how are the plates sealed to the
 housing.
I would get a wash tub, cattle trough, the bath tub or the kitchen sink
 when
Ma Kettle is not watching so you can submerge the whole area under soapy
water. Dish soap works good. With it submerged, you will be able to see
exactly where the air is escaping. Maybe the tire shop would let you use
 their
tank. No soap but should be able to see the bubbles.

Dale Davies


 Paul,

 I guess I forgot about the innertube thing.  I used 3/8" al plate and
bolts
 and RTV to seal everything.  Guess I will have to go thicker.

 I think I may have a  tub for total emersion.

 Thanks guys

 Joe Berki
 Limo EZ



Paul,

Will the McMaster Carr 1/64" film work for a gasket?

Joe

Where? Yes on the slide throttle front and back plates. Not on the
rotor housing pressure test side plates.

Paul Lamar

hi guys, suggestions if i might. it may be a little late for some but i
would blast the intake tube with  a very angular abrasive prior to the
welding installation.this will aid in adhesion when you try to seal the
adjacent cavity. a very liquid (flexible when cured) hi temp material will
work better. heating everything to help flow into the small spaces. the
thermal cycles will take their toll on hard/stiff adhesives and
provide "leaks"
james w.