Of interest possibly: My wife's '05 RX-8 (36,000 mi) was towed
  in to Mazda
  for the fourth time in three years for a starting problem.
  Starter spins
  engine like crazy, but no firing takes place. Engine finally
  "floods", or
  battery dies. There is a secret warranty on this engine that
  extends the
  warranty of the drive train to 80 or 90,000 mi. They have
  decided to replace
  the engine with a reman. Svc mngr says that it is a seal
  problem, probably
  due to the low mileage.


  Herb Karkheck


  You sometimes need to take what they say with a grain of salt.

  I had heard a rumor about the early RX8's not having enough apex
  seal oil and wearing out prematurely. Mazda changed the metered
  amount around 2006 I think.

  I add 1/2 oz of two cycle oil per gallon in my 2004 with only
  30,000 miles and I have had no problems so far.

  Within a week of getting it... it flooded to the point of not
  starting. I think Mazda reprogrammed the computer to solve that
  problem. It has not happened since.


 Morning, Paul...

 Just a long FYI...I have 70,000 miles on  my 2004 RX8 (delivered
 in July 2003) and also use the 2 cycle oil with it every time I
 add gas. I do still have that flooding problem however, even
 after the "computer change".  Usually when I forget and run the
 engine from cold for just a minute or less (like when moving it
 out of the way to move the Long EZ which is also still in my
 garage).

 However, I don't use the modified procedure they suggest since
 the computer change to get it started again. I use a slightly
 modified procedure that I heard was what the dealer uses in these
 conditions. Basically all the computer change did was change the
 program so that when the accelerator pedal is depressed to the
 floor, the fuel pump is shut off so the engine is not getting any
 more gas and has a chance to clear itself.

 The procedure that the dealer uses, if you bring it in, is
 slightly different than the one the modified manual instructions
 state (they stapled a new page in my manual with new instructions
 when they changed the program). I've been using the so-called
 dealer's method instead of the manual's, and it works every time.

 The dealers instructions include removing the fuel pump fuse
 (guess they don't trust their computer program, or that their
 mechanics can press the accelerator to the floor), disconnecting
 the air pump plug (on top, on the passenger's side of the
 engine...they say it's to protect the cat converter from
 explosions) then alternately cranking for 10 seconds and letting
 it rest for 1 minute...do this 4 times. Replace the fuse, and
 start it normally...never touch the accelerator during the entire
 process. Plug the air pump back in and off you go.  As I said. it
 works every time, even though at times I've had to go through it
 two or three times.

 Battery gets a bit low, though! I keep a charger handy...

 The last time it happened was about three weeks ago. But it's
 become part of my life with the car, so I don't even mind it any
 more.

 I'm not sure that that warranty Herb mentioned is "secret".  I
 got a letter about it, even though I've never had the car in for
 any engine problems.  I also recently got a letter saying that
 the warranty was extended on the clutch pedal (not the clutch),
 of all things!

 The only two major problems I've had with the car I never had to
 take to the dealers to fix.  One was about 3 years ago when the
 power steering quit (just a dirty plug...it's directly under the
 radiator overflow tube...cleaned it and it's been working since)
 and the other was last year when the heater/air temp control
 started working intermittently...that was also an easy
 fix...just  resoldering the heater control connections on the
 heater circuit card (the temp control terminals loosen where they
 mount on the card)...but it is a rather involved procedure to get
 that card out (removing the center console cover, and the
 radio/cd player/etc). Took 45 minutes to take it out the first
 time..but only 15 to put it back together.

 Harley



 I guess I live a charmed life. Never had another flood :)

 It could be an environmental thing. You are in humid Buffalo
 and mine lives in So Cal where it is dry most of the time
 with moderate temperatures. I keep it in the hangar and only
 drive it once a month on average. Ever since I started
 disconnecting the battery when I turn it off it starts every
 time once a month after I hook the battery back up.

 I'll check that coolant overflow tube and reroute it if necessary.

 The clutch pedal assembly was poor design and workmanship.
 One year at 7 Stock people were selling home made reinforced
 versions. Mine never gave any problems.... yet :)

 Classic case of unattended consequences. Some clever engineer
 decided to redesign the clutch pedal so the force on your
 foot and leg actually went down when you depressed the clutch.
 It worked very well but the stress engineer was out on sick
 leave :) and it started to crack around the spot welds.
 It also looks like it was made in China.

 Simple matter to take it out and tig weld all the various
 parts together.

 All newly designed  cars have teething problems and unattended
 consequences. You can probably say that about anything that is
 newly designed including cell phones. It is near impossible
 to test for everything the consumer is likely to find.

 I bought an HTC Windows programmed cell phone and it was the worst
 peice of crap I ever spent $400 on. It was a combination of the
 lousy software and the heat sensitive touch screen.

 BTW Harley I would like a scan of that letter for my files.

 Paul Lamar


Actually, I live about 50 miles east of Buffalo, a little south
of Rochester...tucked in between Lake Erie AND Lake Ontario! So
that's even worse for humidity and snow!  We actually exceeded
Buffalo's snowfall last winter.

And, as you stated, that may have been part of the problem when
the power steering plug corroded...humidity and the radiator
overflow "fumes". With those wide tires, you have no doubts that
you've lost the power steering!

I assume you meant the clutch warranty letter?  If so (or even if
not) the letter from Mazda (scanned and converted to jpeg files)
is attached including the instructions for reimbursement if
you've already had the repair done.

Harley

Thanks Harley.

Paul Lamar