Paul,

Thanks for your book it's an interesting read.
I have put together a quick layout of how I would like to do my belly mounted radiator.  The attached pictures I hope explain what I am trying to accomplish.
You mention a separation of about 2" from the belly for boundary layer separation, does this have to extent the entire length of the radiator or is the way I show it ok?
I didn't see anything that gave me a frontal opening size relationship to the area of the radiator, is there a percentage rule of thumb for this?
Any other suggestions on what I'm showing to improve would be appreciated.

Randy

Excellent illustrations Randy. Reduces the frontal area over the splitter plate idea and is far more cosmetic. A Canard P51.

Is that Solid Works or Rhino 3D?

You will still need the Kays & London wedge inlet diffuser page 36.
Also you will need to take the bottom panel off as it will retard the hot air flow out from the front back side of the rad page 46. If you just lower the panel it will add frontal area. Not good. Just do away with it and let the hot air dump into that air stream.

I would use Venetian blind cowl flaps page 51.

I found the dims on the Neon rads I have. Here they are.

The rule of thumb is 20% of the frontal area of the rad.
With the P51 style scoop you are committed :) I dislike commitments all my old girlfriends used to tell me :)

Paul Lamar


Paul
Page 40 shows a setup that would be very simple for me to do if it is how I think it is.
Is the radiator in that picture parallel to the belly of the fuse and is there a separate diffuser, or is the radiator angled and the belly acts as the diffuser?
Also there is no boundary layer separator used here should there have been?
Randy

It is not quite parallel. The back edge is sealed against the bottom
of the fuse. The belly acts as the diffuser. It is best however to
put in a boundary layer bypass board. It is the easiest liquid cooling
system of all to install.

Paul Lamar