Subject: Radiator setup
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 12/9/2010, 8:56 PM
To: AAA Put this in the To box



Paul,

Thanks for your book it's an interesting read.
I have put together a quick layout of how I would like to do my belly mounted radiator.  The attached pictures I hope explain what I am trying to accomplish.
You mention a separation of about 2" from the belly for boundary layer separation, does this have to extent the entire length of the radiator or is the way I show it ok?
I didn't see anything that gave me a frontal opening size relationship to the area of the radiator, is there a percentage rule of thumb for this?
Any other suggestions on what I'm showing to improve would be appreciated.

Randy

Excellent illustrations Randy. Reduces the frontal area over the splitter plate idea and is far more cosmetic. A Canard P51.

Is that Solid Works or Rhino 3D?

You will still need the Kays & London wedge inlet diffuser page 36.
Also you will need to take the bottom panel off as it will retard the hot air flow out from the front back side of the rad page 46. If you just lower the panel it will add frontal area. Not good. Just do away with it and let the hot air dump into that air stream.

I would use Venetian blind cowl flaps page 51.

I found the dims on the Neon rads I have. Here they are.

The rule of thumb is 20% of the frontal area of the rad.
With the P51 style scoop you are committed :) I dislike commitments all my old girlfriends used to tell me :)

Paul Lamar

Paul here is an update minus the cowl flaps.

Randy

Yes that is much better.

You realize of course that is more work than the super simple
system :) It is also none adjustable for frontal area.

I would do that later after you found out what opening
area works best for your engine. You might find you only
need an inch or two.

Paul Lamar



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