Greetings all,

A question for the rotary masses! hoping to spark an electrifying
conversation

I am currently looking into alternator alternatives for my Renesis
engine, mounted on the back of my Aerocanard.

What are the options, mazda and others, the options for mounting,
etc.Is a rebuilt one as good as a new one,

Any experience with good sources, Ideas about pulley sizes, etc.
Let thecurrent flow!!!

Thanks in advance

Rich

Hello Rich
I am getting ready to build an aerocanard as well. How was the build
process? Any tips you can send my way?

Warmest Regards
Franklin

I use two 30A alternators on the prop end, no risk of
overspeeding thealternators there and it frees the front end for
the radiator airflow. Ihave two electrical systems with two
batteries also.

Rino Lacombe
Renesis powered Glass Goose

Rino,

Your installation looks great,  however I am a pusher and have
scads ofroom at the firewall and less than "0" at the prop end. Your
installation got me thinking-- which is always dangerous I think
that Imisspoke, indicating "Back of the Aerocanard" I was
referring to thelocation of the engine. The alternator(s), will,
 of course be on whatamounts to the "front" of the engine, which
of course is backward forthose of you of the tractor persuasion.;-)

I haven't heard many comments about types, rebuilt vs new etc as queered
in my previous post. Perhaps everybody is low on charge thinking about
the holidays. Thinking about alternators may recharge the subject.

(breath taken)
Franklin, where you located???

Rich

Hello Rich,

I'm in Connecticut.

Franklin

I'm using a rebuilt alternator. I hesitated to mention it because I haven't
started the engine for the first time yet, let alone have any
experience to report. I figured an automotive type made for the
rotary would be the easiest installation.

Jay

Hi Rich,
The easiest would be to use the OEM Mazda alternator that was on the engine.
Brackets and alignment done. But packaging under the cowl could be a problem.
If you have to make mounts for one, the GM Delco alternators are readily
available and thus fairly inexpensive. Depends on your amps needs. The problem
with the Delcos is size and weight. An advantage is they come apart easily as
they are all bolts and nuts. If you have some knowledge, they are real easy to
repair yourself. Usually $50 or less.


As for drive pulley sizes, take a look at the OEM parts again. Big pulley on
the e-shaft and smaller on the alternator. In a car the alternator spins much
faster than the "crank" as the car spends so much time at low RPM. In an AC
application where the engine spends almost all its time at high RPM, the drive
ratio could be reduced to almost 1:1.


The regulator has a turn-on RPM that
must be achieved before the alternator "kicks in". Ever have a vehicle that
needed a tap on the accelerator to get it charging? New alternators are
designed differently than the old ones and put out 85% to 90% of their rated
output at just over engine idle. This would be about 1000RPM engine and 3000
RPM at the alternator.

One of these could be run at e-shaft RPM with no
problem. All the new alternators have a high output for their physical size
and weight. OEM's are looking for ways to reduce weight and costs. Smaller is
lighter and less metal in the housing. But all the power accessories most of
us want, requires high amps out.


I worked at a Nissan dealer a few years ago. A Maxima came in with a dead
battery. AVR test indicated a failed alternator. Paid 1.5 hours to diagnose,
remove, repair and re-install. The damn thing was all soldered together and
took for ever. It took the time allowed just to test, remove and put back in.
The advantage to soldered is that it is not as likely to fall apart. If you
like the DIY ease of the Delco, use a dab of Loctite or silicone on the nuts
to prevent them for coming loose.
Just a couple of thoughts from a crazy old mechanic.

Dale Davies