Paul
 Thats certainly one way of doing it, The nice thing about using the
 HTS-2000 rod
 is there is no welding
 you would be drilling a hole in essentialy a solid block of aluminum
 straight
 thru to the rotor housing
 that's it no grinding cleanup nothing, if done correctly no leaks
 either. You
 should realy watch the videos on their website it's pretty
 impressive stuff.

 http://www.aluminumrepair.com/index.asp

 Tony

 As I said above it won't bond to the aluminum in the rotor
 housing unless you get rid of the oxide first and then by heating
 the rotor housing to 1100 F. If you don't do that as the mixture
 cools it will shrink moving away from the inner and outer walls
 in the rotor housing water jacket.
 Furthermore you could destroy the existing heat treat on the
 rotor housing. Try the tig welding trick. You will like it as
 it only takes 5 minutes. It does not distort the aluminum housing.

 The video has nothing to do with what you are suggesting.
 Notice they are heating what they are bonding parts to.
 Notice also that they are filing the old part to remove
 the aluminum oxide coating. You will have to go into
 the water jacket and grind out the entire interior
 surface with a burr inserted into a die grinder.

 Also good luck finding a low cost oven large
 enough to heat the entire rotor housing to at least 500 F
 and maybe 1100 F.

 However you are welcome to try it if you wish.
 Make sure you build up the p-port engine and run it
 full power as we have. Pressurize the cooling system to
 50 psi to be certain there are no leaks.

 If it fails make sure you let us know :) I always let
 people know when something I try does not work no matter
 how embarrassing. We learn more from what does not work
 than we do from what does work. Document each step, as
 we have, by taking a lot of pictures.


 Paul Lamar


 Easy to see the successes with the silicone and the properly treated
 epoxy joints. It just appears really easy to insert a 2"id alum tube
 into the bore and then use one of these specialty rods with the
 appropriate flux to sweat it all together.

 For me, if it fails, I just bore out the alum tube and install the
 stainless in it's place. If I had'nt brazed and soldered a lot of
 fittings in my life, I probably would not consider it.

 Ed Carver


 I think that is more likely to work than filling up
 the whole water jacket.

 There are some complication inside that you will have
 to work around.


 What I would like about it if it works it is potentially
 the best way to seal the outer wall.

 Do you have a mill to bore the hole Ed?

 You can get a junk rotor housings from Mazdatrix for $30
 to test it on. I think I am all out of junk rotor housings.
 I'll take a look and see if I have one left. I have some 2 inch
 OD .065 wall 6061T6 tube lying around you can use I think.

 Paul Lamar

I did a prototype Pport like that with low-temp silver solder - it
worked but was not a high enough temperature for my liking.
The HTS brazing (soldering) material when done properly is stronger than
the base aluminum.  Be really careful with prep and contamination - I
had several test pieces that looked good but had poor adhesion.
Heating the thermal mass of something the mass of a rotor housing
without warping will require quite a bit of heat - I preheated with a
BBQ + 2 propane torches + oxy-acetylene for similar sized test pieces.
Burger anyone?
You might try to "tin" the surface of each of the pieces first (inserts
and pre-bored housings) to ensure adhesion to the base aluminum.  Then
re-heat the parts to insert the sleeves.
Cheers
Cary