Subject: Tube beading
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 2/18/2011, 11:08 AM
To: AAA Put this in the To box

I used the Earl's Performance Plumbing
1 1/2 inch OD tube beader on these two small tubes
today. I had to make a mandrel that fit
the inside of the tube so I could hold it from turning in
a 3 jaw lathe chuck during the beading process.

The large wrench is needed for the 2 inch
version and the smaller wrench is needed for the
1 1/2 inch version.

Perhaps a better way is to clamp the Earl's beader in a
bench vise and use a strap wrench to rotate the tube.

It is a rather time consuming process. The balls
must be moved out over and over again as the tube or
the beader is rotated over and over again.

.065" wall 6061 T6 is at the limit of what these
things can do. 6061-O is probably a lot easier.
Thinner walls would also be easier but they are
harder to weld.

The balls are staked in so a bit of filing around
the balls is needed to get rid of the manufacturing
burrs that tend to gouge the inside of the tube.

Also the beader tends to distort the tube slightly and
lock itself in so both ends of the tube must be open to
knock the beader out with a large socket and hammer
when done.

Paul Lamar

Thanks for the review Paul. Very helpful.
C. Smith

I woke up this morning with a better idea. Shear some
.049" thick 6061 T6 sheet .125" wide.
Bend it around the tube and tack tig weld or braze it on :)


Paul Lamar


After following this for a while and seeing the last post I'll share what I did.
I took the next size up tube that was a slip fit on the tube needing beading and turned a handful of small collars / beads. I slipped one of these over the tube and welded it in place with low temp aluminum welding rod.  This stuff is a little tricky to use but all you need is a propane torch.  The beads aren't as pretty but they won't come off and are simple to do.
Randy Lewis


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