This is another one I need. Same situation.

    This is the oil feed line for the 1990 1991 turbo.

    Does anybody have one they can sell?
    Does anybody know the part number?

    BTW has anybody run Mobile One in a turbo engine?
    I would think it ideal as it is good to 500 F while
    regular mineral oil starts coking around 250 F.

    Paul Lamar

I have been through a number of iterations on that one.  First I flared
the stock line, which was a -5 size, and found a -5 to -4 adapter for
the rest of my system.

Most after market turbo oil inlet plate adapters fit.  Found many places
online like Jegs..  fits any size AN you want.  ..  But Those leaked
some.

Last 100 hrs I have been using a steel 45deg  1/8NPT to AN-4.  That
is the simplest, lightest, cheapest, and no leaking so far.  The oil
hole at the top of the turbo has NPT threads (on my TO4 center
section)

-- David Leonard

Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net <http://n4vy.rotaryroster.net/
http://RotaryRoster.net <http://rotaryroster.net/

Thanks Dave. I'll check out Jeggs. Do you use the turbo oil banjo
fitting on the block  end or do you get the high pressure
oil someplace else?

Paul Lamar

There is a metric thread fitting on the plug-front-top area of the
forward housing that I use.  It may be where the banjo fitting was, but
it is threaded as well.  M8?  Its been many years...
--
David Leonard

Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net

Yes that is where mine is too. It had a banjo on it
but changing it out to a strait fitting is a good idea
because banjo's suck when it comes to pressure drops.

Paul Lamar


Paul,

You could use carbon steel or stainless tube. Swageloc has 5/16 tube and
fittings available. You could also use 3/8 tube as it is much more readily
available. You can get the fittings you need at the Swageloc dealer. You
shoulld be able to buy the tube in 10' length or less. If you find an
industrial contractor, you should be able to get short lengths they would
usually throw in the scrap. For the exhaust expansion, you ca put a loop in
the tube or a candy cane. To make a loop it is easy to bend it around a 3.5"
or 4" pipe once or twice. The Swageloc fittings are good to 5,000 PSI or more
if installed correctly. Instaal the NPT as usual. The nut is finger tight.
Install the tube and tighten 1 1/4 turns. For checking the tube fit before
final install, you can snug the nut one or two flats and still be able to
loosen the nut and pull the tube out.

For the drain tube you can use the stock 90 fitting on the bottom as I would
suspect vertical height can be a problem. While you are getting tube from the
contractor, get a short bit of 3/4". That can be tig welded on the 90*. This
time a loop is not feasible. A candy cane will do the expansion job. If you
take measurements using the tube center, the contractor will probably bend the
tube for a minimal charge. The the drain into the engine could use the flange
from a leaking stock hose or make a flange to fit the gasket and Tig the tube
to it. If the length from the turbo to the engine port is short, go farther
ahead and then do a 180* to come back, and then a 90* to the engine. Two
things to watch out for;
Do not go up to the block. Turbo drains do not work well when forced to push up.
The 3/4 tube in lighter wall thickness has a tendency to kink when bent. Use
at least .049 tube. You may need to go to .065 wall. Plenty heavy for a drain
but it will not leak.

Dale Davies

Thanks for all the tips Dale.

Paul Lamar