Question and thoughts about Oil injection.
Because the series 1 RX-8 engine is a bit short of oil injection as
Paul
has mentioned could or would an option be to add some sort of oil
injection into the intake system to spray a fine mist into the intake
system? I think this would be rather like a 2-stroke oil injection
system/s used on Rotax engines and the like.
My thoughts were use the oil injection system that exists on the Rotary
but add another injector into the intake system to spray 2-stroke oil
using a Richard Sohns adaptor.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this?
I'm just thinking out loud with ways to add lubrication oil for the
Apex
seals, without requiring to premix it. My thoughts about this is you
don't need much oil at low RPM eg when idling on the ground, warm up,
low rpm for descent and the like but you do need more oil for high
power
settings to ensure that there is enough lubrication for the seals when
they are under high power. What do other think of this and if so what
size spay nozzle/s would be needed?
Regards David (Australia)
--
The oil injection takes place when there is a vacuum in the intake
chamber. The injector has a one way valve so atmospheric pressure does
the actual injection. The metering pump does just that. It meters the
oil to the injectors. The metering pump controls a stepper motor by
sending out pulses on four wires. The cheapest and easiest way to
modify
the amount of oil metered is to insert a low cost microcomputer in the
wiring harness that reads the pulses and modifies them in such a way
that increases the amount of oil metered.
http://www.imagesco.com/articles/picstepper/02.html
I recommend something like a BASIC stamp as a 3rd grade student can
learn to program it in BASIC. Here is the company I would go with as I
have extensive experience with their product and their $100 prototype
board is extremely easy to use.
The final product could cost under $20 for parts.
http://www.zbasic.net/
Paul Lamar
---
I have every intention of still using the original oil injection holes.
I did find this info on the racing beat website.
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/performance/rotary-tech-tips/oil-filters-mop
.html
It is near the bottom of the page.
RX-8 - Race Tips:- While undertaking development work on the RX-8
Renesis engine for SCCA T2/T3 use, we decided to introduce extra oil
into the fuel to monitor the effect. To our surprise, this additional
oil increased power! Further dyno testing found that by adding 10
oz. of
Royal Purple 2-Stroke Oil to 6 gallons of fuel, we gained an average of
1.7 HP from 2000-9000 RPM, along with an increase in peak power of
4 HP.
We validated this increase by changing back to a "non-oiled" fuel - and
the power returned to the previous level. Later, we tried the same test
with another brand of synthetic oil with nearly the same results. For
racing applications, the addition of a high quality synthetic oil
increases power and most certainly decreases wear. The only negatives
are the cost of the oil and an increase in the tendency to foul the
spark plugs. (Note: We have not performed these tests on non-RX-8
engines yet, these results are unknown.)
I guess that injecting or premixing some additional 2-stroke oil into
the fuel is apparently a better option and as such worth doing although
not at the rate that racing beat suggest for high end racing
applications, however any improvement in power is a bonus, improvement
in lubrication obviously is the aim without causing plug fouling.
Also from the Racingbeat site:- The metering rates for stock engines
vary, so consult an appropriate shop manual for your carâ??s
specifications. In normally aspirated racing vehicles we use either a
setting of 5cc/5minutes (total flow - 2,000 RPM, warm engine, arm
in the
"full throttle" position) on the metering oil pump or premix 3.5 oz of
good quality synthetic oil (preferably 2-stroke motorcycle "oil
injection" oil) to 5 gallons of fuel. The requirement for turbo engines
in racing is high enough that use of a metering oil pump is
impractical.
Therefore, we premix up to 22 oz of oil to 5 gallons of fuel in a
600 HP
2-rotor. If you are not pressing your engine this hard, you can use
proportionally less oil.
From this and other past posts in the newsletter. It would appear that
somewhere between 100 ml and 200 ml per 20 liters (200:1 - 100:1) would
be about the optimum amount to inject for use in flying.
If the oil is injected both into the original oil nozzles and then
using
another oil nozzle to push oil into the fuel system right before the
injection pumps that should be fairly elegant and would not require
premixing oil into fuel.
I'm in the process of doing my engine now within the next few months it
should be finished on a test stand and ready for running using Tracy's
Computer system and engine monitoring system,
At the moment the making the adaptor for the gearbox is in progress,
that will be finished shortly.
Then it's on to putting it all together and building the wiring system
etc for it.
Regards David.
Paul, Re oil injection if the oil in injected on the suction side
of the
fuel pump, after a little while the fuel in the tank/s will have
lots of
oil in it/them, because the fuel pumps flow at least twice the
amount of
fuel required by the engine, so each time it goes around the fuel gets
another dose of oil, unless of course you are referring to a
carburetted
version.
John Burey
Good point. Back to the dwg board :)
Paul Lamar
--
I did think about that it appears that the default way for the RX-8
engine is a return-less fuel injection system. Maybe based on that it
could work. However if using a return based system then the issue
becomes interesting. Maybe injecting into the fuel before it enters the
fuel rails might be an option, provided the return line was based
on the
pressure regulator being before the fuel rail/s and use a check
valve to
ensure no back wash of the fuel. However I suspect that the OMP
does not
have the pressure for this to work.
Otherwise maybe a couple of nozzles one in each primary intake port
for each rotor and spray it in directly, the ventri effect should help
this. which is what I was musing about to start off with.
Regards David
Paul,
if you sent the return back to the header tank, then it still works.
Larry
So you are saying inject the oil into the line from
the main tank to the header tank?
Paul Lamar
On a simpler, more basic level, when adding the oil to the fuel
tank(s). How
rapidly does oil disperse in the fuel? If filling a partial tank, do you
guess the amount of fuel you will load, and add the oil first, or
will it be
OK to fill your tank(s), then do the math and add the precise amount
required?
Herb Karkheck
We have no numbers on this. As far as I can tell in 12 years it
does not seem to matter. Taxiing way from the fuel pump probably
disperses the oil in the fuel. Sloshing in the air probably helps.
The vast majority of people flying use premix.
Paul Lamar
With my EFIS and capacitive fuel probes, the fuel level readings
are pretty accurate, so I have a pretty good idea of how much fuel it
will take before I pump the fuel. I usually don't fill up until I'm
down to about 10-15 gallons per tank. Since each tank will hold 47
gallons, I can usually put one quart in each side and stop at 32
gallons/tank. I pour the oil in while I am pumping the gas. (This
takes a little practice.) If I go over the 32 gallons, I can add a few
extra ounces after the fact to bring the oil/fuel ratio to 1 oz/gallon.
My fuel system returns the unused fuel to the currently selected tank,
so running the pump for a minute or so will guarantee a good mix.
I recently had my credit limit raised so that I can fill up with
only one credit card. ;-(
Mark
--
I found some original information from Mazda about the earlier oil
injection systems they have used in the past. My thoughts based on this
information is that applicable oil nozzles in the intake manifold should
work for the Series 1 Renesis engine to reduce the apparent increased
wear issues. I'm assuming that the oil system worked OK for the earlier
engines.
So if I put these style of nozzles in the intake where would be the best
place to put them? I thought that the best place would be right next to
the main primary intake port or is there a better place to put them?
Mazda used this style of system on more than one version of the 13B
engine it must have some merit.
Attached are three files of oil lubrication systems for various RX-7
engines, normally aspirated and turbo engines. It appears these versions
of the engine had a ratio of about 100:1 at about 2000 RPM, I assume
that the ratio was 300:1 or maybe higher at idle and at higher RPM/loads
the ratio would or should have been somewhat lower.
The OMP system has been around for a long time it certainly appears to
have been a reliable system. There are millions of engines out there that
have used it for decades, having a variable ratio of oil particularly
when the highest loads are present must have benefits over a fixed
amount of oil in the fuel.
I keep looking at the OMP system. If it is maintained and checked
properly, it should prove to be a reliable system. Apart from some
computer codes that appear to more from some sort of poor adjustment
there does not appear to have been any actual mechanical failures of the
OMP on RX-8's.
Regards David
This link mentioned in the 02_LUBRICATION_SYSTEM.pdf
did not work David.
http://members.xoom.com/twinturboteddy/fsm/rx7.htm
Mazda has been very stupid about the whole Oil Metering Pump
situation. It is well known that non synthetic crankcase oil is
not the best stuff to lube the apex seals yet Mazda continues to recommend
it. Synthetic oil survives much higher temperatures so it is far superior.
I can see why they have not installed a two cycle oil reservoir as it
is just another thing the customer must maintain. The smart thing
for them to do is test a synthetic oil for the crankcase and start
recommending it. I was told by the higher up that they simply have
not tested it.
Chevrolet recommends Mobil 1. I have been using Mobil 1 in
my street rotaries with no ill effects for over a decade.
Try synthetic Idemitsu rotary engine oil Mazda and start recommending it.
For those doubters out there put a teaspoon of oil in a small can
and bake it in your oven for 30 minutes at 500 F. Open all windows wide :)
Paul Lamar
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