Good morning Jeff
 This is my own design and i keep modifying with the members
 recommendations and i will go with straight big size bore 2.250"
 i,dia but i am wondering about the snap ring sharp edges for materail
 fatigue.
 Paul is suggesting using hydraulic press to insert the plug and few set
 screw,do you have an other suggestion??

 Jean Prudhomme



 Good afternoon Jeff
 You probably seen my correspondance with Paul and George.
 I am designing a new prop drive reduction for the rotary engine for
 my twin project and if i do have good result i will make it
 available for others.
 I am wondering how much it will cost for you to machine one shaft
 and near futur produce a certain quantity if do have a good result
 with it.
 See the attachement for your information


 Jean Prudhomme

 Jean

 Yes, i have been following....I fear the part is to big for my machine.
 That large tapered center bore has me spooked. You could only fit a 1"
 boring bar, 10" deep, a 10 to 1 ratio is real tough especially with the
 undercut taper....My machine travel is 20". The length of the part
 plus the room to feed the bar and drill well over 20". The boring bar
 has an insert that protrudes 90degrees. That reduces the clearance to
 feed in and not crash the corner where the taper drops in...... I could
 possibly drill out a big chunk on the VMC with a 1.5" drill.. That
 would still leave the inner profile on the lathe, tight,blind and
 dangerous with a crap finish because of the vibration of the long thin
 boring bar no matter how many passes.That could set up stress risers
 internally..
 Man, I would really like to help but this part may be unmake-able as a
 pure machine piece.....Is this a copy of an existing design because it
 is sooooo long.......????? Maybe somehow breaking it into 2 pieces
 would be more doable.....?????

 jeff



 Paul
 This is you had on your mind about the plug?

 Jean Prudhomme

 Yes but perhaps a bit shorter. Not as long.

 It takes a really big lathe to make stuff like this.
 I agree with Jeff. It does not need to be longer than
 a Lycoming bearing shell.

 I have a guy in SZP that can cut it for you.
 You may have to buy a large drill.

 I'll try to take some pictures of his equipment today.

 Paul Lamar


 Jean, If you make the prop pilot thicker to the ID of the bore on that
 end then you could chuck it up there without the chuck crushing the
 pilot out of round. Leave the pilot long to mount the stock and cut it
 off with the parting tool when everything else is done. Then with the
 pressed in plug (same material as shaft not aluminum) all the boring
 work can be done from the open big end. If the thicker wall were
 extended to the center of the governor gear then it could be a 45 degree
 transition machined by pulling up both feed handels at the same time. A
 CNC lathe could do the interior taper as shown and would be a better way
 to get smooth large radius fillets such as behind the prop flange.

 george

 Here are some pictures of the machine shop at SZP.

 Michl TooL Works 805 525 6638
 805 525 6639 FAX

 Owned by Stephen Michl

 I dropped off your dwg today with him.
 He has located a suitable billet of 4340 at Joregensen for $234.
 It is about 100 pounds.

 Paul Lamar


Thank's Paul
I will come back to you an about a week ,i am leaving in vacation on the
Pricess cruise but i will carrier my labtop with me.


Jean Prudhomme