Bent eshaft or unbalanced CW on that end would be my first WAG.    Check
   bearing clearance and eshaft run out.
   That front bearing is protruding a bit,  it may have been pressed too
   far or squished out by the eshaft.
   Any pics and weights for the front and rear counter weights.
   How is the oil routed to the bearings?
   There are also some interesting triangular wear marks at the 9-11oclock
   position on the back of the front stationary gear.

   Cheers
   Cary

   New engines, fresh rebuilds, and engines you know nothing about, are
   spun up with no plugs until they have 30 or 40 pounds of oil
   pressure. The filter is removed and filled with oil. A pile of paper
   towels is built up around the filter stand and the filter is quickly
   screwed back on. The filter is inverted, A clear violation of the
   common sense rule, and would rather collect air than filter oil.
   Another reason for a remote filter stand with filter or filters
   right side up.

This bearing was run dry.
Press out the bearing with a pusher that is just slightly smaller than
the bearing OD on one end, and bigger than the stationary gear bore on
the other.

With a small Machinists square draw Sharpie lines down the new bearing
along each side of that tab. I sand through the plating at the end
opposite the tab on the outside of the bearing. This so plating is not
stripped off and piled up under the bearing shell. Just break through
the plating for about 1/64".

With a Dial bore gage or snap gages verify the bore is cylindrical in
the gear.
For race engines warm the stationary gear until you cannot pick it up.
Freeze the new bearing. Wipe red Locktite around the ID of the bore.
Hot isn't it? Align the Sharpie lines with that notch in the gear. Press
the bearing home. Snap gage the bearing bore right at the base of that tab
to be sure that you have a full diameter right there. If this is not the
case, fire up the Dremmel and take that area right down to the copper
and measure again. Better too much clearance than not enough.
It will not hurt a thing. Note that the Puzzel lock area is full reduced
already.

If you are new to pressing bearings, leave out the locktite. Has to be
done in one full stroke. If you stop at all you may have to grind out
the shell and start over.

For street engines, same as above but no Locktite, just lube the bearing
OD with engine oil. No heat, no cold, just press it in.

For rotor bearings same as race mains except grind off the tab
completely before you start. It does nothing, as there is nothing to
index. (no oil hole). If the bearing welds to the crank at speed, that
little tab will be loose in the rotor or in the pan. It is not strong
enough to prevent anything.

Assemble the block with 2 bolts and in the cleaning tank verify an oil
path to the front main bearing.

Pack the oil pump from a brand new can of wheel bearing grease, to
assure that it can lift a prime when you spin the engine with no plugs
in it, to assure that there is adequate oil pressure* Prior* to startup.

Fill the upper galleries by pouring oil into the filter stand before
installing the full oil filter. The old stock relief valves are set at
71 pounds, but you get that at about 1,000 RPM. 30 to 40 pounds is all
you will see at cranking speed. You can jack up the pressure by
installing washers under the relief spring. 80 PSI hot would be good.

Lynn E. Hanover

Very interesting as usual Lynn.
Thanks.

Paul Lamar