Paul,

   Just got the RD1-C.

   The spacers that come with the unit will need to be shortened 1/2".

   What is the best way to do this?

   Rough cut on the band saw and finish it in a milling machine?

   I am using the 1/2 aluminum design that grabs the bell housing bolt
   locations
   and transmits the torque load to the mount 90 degrees at about a foot
   outboard of the Eshaft.

   Thanks for any help.

   Joe Berki
   LimoEZ

   Are you sandwiching a 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate motor mount?
   I assume so from this picture. The problem is you lose the 2 hollow
   dowel pins which are very very important for proper location.
   Tracy won't like it :)

   This is my mistake as I suggested this design years ago in 2003.
   Long-EZ0.jpg

   The best why to fix it is build a new PSRU adapter plate and extend
   the motor
   mount tubes about 3 inches.

   That is why Jeff is now making and selling PSRU adapter plates with
   built in motor mounts.

   Or just tig weld extensions to Tracy's PSRU plate for motor mounts.

   Do you have room to move the engine 3 inches forward?

   Another way to do it is make a U shaped schertz beam out of one inch
   square
   tubing  that goes down and under the oil pan and end housing. Use
   the oil
   pan bolts to fasten it to the engine.

    From the looks of it you are also having trouble with the exhaust
   pipe clearance. Consider lowering the rubber bushing and  starting
   over on the motor mount tubes as shown in the last 3D.

   Paul Lamar


Paul,   The dowel pins could be added to the outer face of this mounting
plate which is or could be through drilled.  The dowel would be stepped
or knurled wher it fits into the mounting ring since the holes would be
clearanced larger than the press fit of the dowel. Once located the
dowels could be used for alignment to drill and ream additional dowel
locations for more shear points. This design is currently using two
shear points in aluminum to counter the torque multiplication of the
PSRU.  Admittedly this arrangement is heavier than Jeff's mounting plate
by probably 12 pounds, however if we continually back step major
assemblies the projects may never be finished. The thickness of this
mounting ring would also allow additional mounting bolts between the PSRU
plate and the motor mount ring.


george grimes


It is always best to do the motor mount last :)
http://www.rotaryeng.net/motor.html

"A motor mount is the last thing you want to build when installing a rotary engine in your aircraft. Collect all the major parts you intend to use such as rads, turbo chargers and mufflers. Build a full scale mock up of the type of installation or layout you would like to use with all the major parts that are going under the cowl. You can carve exact full scale foam models if you are not ready to buy the actual parts. This will save you a year or more from making many parts over and over again and that includes the motor mount itself. You can also use a good 3D modeling computer program such as Rhino or Solid Works. A 3D program allows you to rotate the 3D drawing to any angle and check clearances between the parts."

Paul Lamar