I've had my 20B on a test stand all wired up and ready to run for
 months.  But even after endless troubleshooting I haven't been able to
 achieve a successful start.

 Today I hooked up a compression tester and I?ve probably found the
 problem.  Rotors one peaks out at 35 ? 40 psi and leaks down the instant
 I stop cranking the engine, rotor two peaks around 50 psi and leaks
 slowly down, rotor three peaks and will hold about 60 psi.  I didn?t own
 a compression tester when I did the rebuild and figured since I replaced
 practically everything but the rotors and housings I should be OK.



 Any thoughts, comments, or suggestions before I start tearing down the
 engine?



 TIA

 Jay

 Remove the schrader valve from the compression tester and watch it
 while the starter turns the engine over. It should equal pulse 70 to 80
 psi three times in a row on each rotor.

 Sounds like you have one or more stuck
 apex seals. Remove the exhaust manifold and use a small screw driver
 to push on the apex seals through the exhaust port. If you cannot
 feel them move in and out under the influence of the springs you
 have a stuck seal. Spray WD40 in there and keep trying.
 Remove the plugs and put some auto transmission oil in the engine.
 Turn it over a few times and let it sit over night. Then check the
 seals again. Once you get it running it will clean itself up.

 Are you mixing oil with the fuel?

 Paul Lamar


I have heard a few comments over the years of leftover carbon in the apex
slots sticking seals after a rebuild.
Do you recall any issues getting the apex seal springs inserted, that is a
hint.
As Paul says, pull the exhaust, check the apex springs for spring.  Try ATF
in the plugs/exhaust, turn over the engine and work the apex seals manually.

How bad was the edge flaking on the rotor housings you used?
vendor seals?

Cheers
Cary

Paul is right,
One other suggestion, give it a squirt of ether as you crank.
Milo


My 20B sat for over a year before I tried to start it. It also had the seals
stuck from sitting. I poured lots of ATF down the intake and let it sit
overnight. Then spun it over the next day without plugs in it. I didn't run
a compression check before hand, I've done enough of these I could tell by
the sound what was going on. I spun the plugs back in and it fired right up.
Smokes like hell for a bit. Don't worry about your leak down test. Rotaries
don't fare so well with a leak down test. Too many places to leak. A piston
ring has one leak down spot.(not counting the actual sealing surface, but
the ring gap)  Rotor motors have at least 8, more if you want to get really
technical. That's why cranking speed is very important. It cant have too
much leak down time during cranking. More speed, less time. I'll bet you
fire it up once and it will be good to go.

Bob Mears