I should be getting my o-rings in any day now so I can put my engine
back together.  Is there a manual that will tell me how to reassemble?
I will need bolt torques, and how to put the rotor in the housing
without all the seals and springs falling out.  Are the seals just held
in place with some grease or is there some special assembly procedure?
Thanks,
Randy

http://www.rotaryeng.net/interesting.html

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual


Use a bit a Vaseline to hold the O-rings in place.

As Tracy points
out don't use RTV to hold the rings in place as it could harden
and add to your problems. Buy the O-rings slightly under size on the big
diameter (no more than 5% under size) and stretch slightly them on a
plywood form for a few days before installing them. They will then lie
in the slot perfectly as we discovered with Perry's installation.
Don't try to stretch the ring by hand or by another method as you
could permanently neck them down.

http://www.rotaryeng.net/seals.html
http://www.rotaryeng.net/O-ring-size2.html

Paul Lamar

Cold Vaseline out of the freezer works well.
Hylomar works - use thin applications.  Avoid the new universal blue
formulation, it hardens quickly and is lower temp -
I *think* the new advanced formulation is equivalent to the old
non-setting hylomar.

Slightly undersize TESorings can be easily expanded by heat for fitting
if necessary.
Undersize orings can be stretched with light finger pressure without
necking down.
Better yet order the correct size - no stretching required
At last measurement, new TES orings from RWS/Tracy measured .100" new,
and a set of used (compressed) orings measured .012-.015 wider than
(compressed) .093 from Creavey
(probably outside the creavey nominal crush spec - I would have to check
again)
http://www.creavey.com/materials.html

Personally I would just buy stock orings now, given all the trouble
people have had.
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=626610

"Creavey sells custom viton, FEP teflon, PFA teflon (500F) orings.
You could order lengths to a thousandth of an inch. Wide variety of
thicknesses.
Approximately correct oring sizes were on file for 13B engines at
Creavey. Ask!
No crap STRETCHING REQUIRED!!!
Several different correct oring lengths were published by different folks.
Slightly different lengths were required for the different (casting)
generations of housings.

RA and McMasterCarr selections were larger diameter, likely leading to
hydro lock and opening up a gap to exhaust gas exposure, lost coolant
and ultimately leading to oring failure.
Creavey specified a nominal crush. RA and McMaster seals were too big by
that spec.
I have seen several engines with failed orings as a result, although
many have also been fine.

They were way cheaper than OEM and properly selected they fit and are
reusable...
Or ignore all this and search for Lynn H's uber cheapest oring
replacements..."

Cheers
Cary

Over size O-rings can lead to cracked end housings.
Buy Creavey only and mic them to be sure they are less
than .093. I have seen the McMaster version and they are junk.
I don't know where Tracy's is getting his.

The slight stretch is to keep them on the plywood until
they take a set that will keep them in the groove when assembling
the engine. They come coiled up for packaging reasons. You will encounter
that when you get them.

http://www.rotaryeng.net/O-ring-size2.html

Lynn Hannover used Teflon coated  hook up wire:) Not recommended for aircraft.

You have to buy a whole overhaul kit to get new Mazda O-rings.
They are not sold separately.

Paul Lamar