Group,
After over 11 years of building on a Glass Goose, I may be finished.
Not
finished in a good way, though. I filled my wing tanks several months ago
and was delighted to fire up my Renesis. Today, a month later, I noticed
the leading edge cap separating from the wing near the wing root and leaking
out of it. With further investigation, I also discovered leaks on the
bottom of the opposite wing at the shear web. The residue of the leaks is
yellow-tan in color and sticky. My conclusion is that the alcohol in the
gas has had an adverse affect on the epoxy. I'll call the epoxy maker on
Monday to get his words. I read about the effects of alcohol on epoxy on
the internet several years ago but was assured that it wouldn't affect a
tank that was Jeffcoed. Sealing the tank is the least of my concern. What
makes me think the wings are now unreliable is that the fuel has wicked up
into many areas of the wings' integrity so, at this time, I don't think I
can trust them. I offer this as a warning to those that can use it. Do any
of you have any ideas or words that
Sandy McNabb
Renesis in a Glass Goose (retired)
Sandy,
What kind of Epoxy did you use, was it EZ Poxy? I am
assuming you jeffcoed the tank based on what you wrote am I correct?
Does anyone know of any protection for composite built aircraft
for the
problem described here with alcohol laden fuel or ethanol? FYI, fuel
bladders is not a workable solution for most composite airplanes.
James Ealey
I am interested in your reasons on why fuel bladders is not a
workable solution for most composite airplanes. Are you speaking
of the blue foam Rutan method?
Paul Lamar
Yes, the Rutan designs are what I was referring to with the blue
foam.
With these designs unless you get specially made bladders and you
are
will to eat the weight penalty you will
definitely lose something that the design offers in performance.
James Ealey
Auto fuel is a 25% savings in fuel cost. I don't have a weight per
square
foot yet on the McMaster neoprene nylon material but it can't be
much
at only .022 inches thick. I'll order $5 worth and weigh it and do
some
fuel tests on it.
Custom built was what I had in mind for the fuel cells. One can
hammer
ribs out of sheet steel and use them to clamp and heat the joints.
I suspect something like 250 F will do the job.
It will take a bit of trial and error to learn how.
Paul Lamar
James,
I have a wet wing with fuel in the whole leading edge rib sections.
A
few holes are cut in the lower rib to let the fuel flow. The building plans
call for sealing the surface area of all of those D sections plus the holes.
It is a daunting task and I doubt I can accomplish it with 100% certainty.
Worst get the outer skin is added later and those joints can't not be
properly sealed. Since I am exploring using high ethanol content fuel, I'll
be hiring someone to weld thin 0.3mm Teflon bladders for me. With the
absence of JeffCo coating the weight increase will be nelgible. I haven't
figured out the connection method between them yet. Probably need some
male/female tube connections welded on. Bladders can be designed to
collapse if desired. Sandy, I wouldn't scrap the wings yet. Chances are
the ethanol is reacting with the epoxy surface or remaining wax. I don't
know which type of resin you used but some of the vinyl-esters are
specifically designed to hold solvents. Chances are good you can drain the
fuel heat up the wings to 25C and evaporate the remaining solvent out of
them. If you are concerned with the integrity of the wings, make a jig and
load test them with sand bags. After passing that test you can make a plan
to add bladders. Water infiltrating into fuel tank depends a lot on the
tank material, vent air temp and humidity. Naturally amphibs. operate in a
humid environment. Having the wing tanks feed a low sump tank is also a
good idea. Pump pick-ups should be at least a half a gallon volume above
the bottom of this tank.
Doug in Japan
Those big tanks in the ground at the gas station are now vinyl
ester. It
seems that tanks made of vinyl ester or lined or doubled up with
vinyl
ester
would do fine. Or if you have a TIG machine, or better yet, a
friend with
a TIG machine, repair the damage with whatever epoxy you built
with and
make up some nice aluminum tanks. Or, race car fuel cells come in
many
interesting shapes and sizes and the smaller ones are cheap
enough. You
can order
the bladder without the steel can. Check out ATL
http://atlfuelcells.com/
(
http://atlfuelcells.com/)
and
http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us3&q=racing+fuel+cells
http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us3&q=racing+fuel+cells
Lynn E. Hanover
I think teflon is over kill. I am not sure it is easy to weld.
Reliable
bonding is a problem. Polyethelene is what most solvent bottles are
made
from if they are not glass. It is a well behaved thermoplastic and
can be
welded. Harbor Freight has soldering iron like tools for plastic
welding;
hot gas jet. McMaster has poly sheet in the catalog.
Murry I. Rozansky
Thanks for the harbor freight tip. I am going over there today
to get some polishing pads.
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I think Polyethelene would be too stiff for retrofit through small
holes.
If there are 2 ribs in your tank it could be done by cutting two 6
by 12
holes
oval holes with three custom made bladders. The edge of the holes
are near
the
ribs so connections can be made to the next bladder. I suspect it
does not
take
long to make a custom bladder.
My 182 has a dozen access holes in the bottom skin :)
Sandy, Contact your local EAA chapter for help building the new wings.
All EAA people can learn from your experience.
Also get a bore scope and take a look inside. The harbor freight
unit is
marginal but home depot now sells them. I suspect it is better.
Paul Lamar
--
Group,
Sorry I haven't gotten back to y'all sooner. I've been on a three
day London
trip. To answer some questions, the epoxy I used is what the kit
supplier
sends me: CER 112-2 resin and hardener. I've talked with the
technical guy
at the supplier (Cass Polymers, Madison Heights, MI) and he has
confirmed
that ethanol is very detrimental to their epoxy. I suspected that from
conversations on the internet, however, I was assured that if I use
a JeffCo
lining in the tanks, there would be no issues. It's now obvious that
it's
not the case.
The airplane has wet wings with 3/8' foam covered with fiberglass.
When I first started this project I promised myself that I would not
ever
fly this airplane if there were any doubts about its safety. I now
have
doubts about the integrity of the wings. They may be just fine,
however,
even with borescoping and testing, I think I'll still have some doubts
because the spar is in the wet tanks and has been exposed to ethanol
for
over a month. If I was satisfied that the integrity is still in
tack, I'd
still have major challenges with correcting the ethanol issues with
the four
wing tanks. Actually, the four wing tanks are subdivided by the spar
in two
tanks, so blatters and/or sealing would certainly be a major
challenge. I'll
certainly make anybody a good deal on the project if they want to
give it a
try with the understanding that I think the airplane is quite
possibly not
safe and the wings should not be used. The project is complete with
the
exception of attaching the tail and building a cowling.
So, at this time, my first plan is to strip the airplane and donate
it to a
school or museum and part out the rest. I've got a 2005 Renesis with
5,000
miles on it that runs like a champ. The engine was rebuilt and
ported by
Bruce Turrentine. If I can't donate the airplane, then I'll try to
sell it
in one piece as much as possible (short of the wings which I will
probably
saw off) minus the avionics which I'll use in my next project. Oh
yes, I'll
be starting a new project soon. I'm kinda stubborn.
Did I miss any questions on this thread?
Got any ideas on how to donate it and to who?
Sandy McNabb
Renesis in a Glass Goose (retired)
IMHO parting it out is not a good option. You have years installing
the engine and cooling system unique to a Glass Goose. All that effort
would be wasted if somebody bought just the engine for installation
in some other type of aircraft. I have first hand experience with that
as I bought a flying RV4 with a rotary engine. I was mightily
impressed with all the thought, time and labor Mike Wills put
into the airplane. It would be a crime against humanity to part it
out :) It my opinion it was a stupendous bargain.
It would be a good buy for somebody else building a Glass Goose.
I would focus on selling it to that community if not the rotary
community..
Also I would not saw off the wings just yet. Further inspection
with ultra sonic techniques may prove they are not as bad as you
think. I would find a structural engineer and get his opinion.
Paul Lamar
Sandy,
Mark Forse, who teaches a composite workshop for EAA says that Abaris
company is the premier place to take composite training...they have courses
for industry people. Maybe you can consult with them and get an opinion
about what to do?
Gene Kahn
--
Wasn't there a huge problem with de bonding of the wing skin from the
ribs/spars on the original Glass Gooses? Maybe that is part of the
problem--poor original bonding?
Marc (who once considered them after the kits were modified by the TX guy)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
Gene....thanks. I'll look up Abaris company.
Marc....Some of the old Seahawkers (pre-Glass Goose - three I think) lost an
upper wing (one side). One due to aileron flutter and the other two due to
weak wing spars. They didn't have ethanol back then. The two issues have
been corrected in the current Glass Goose. By the way, I heard that all
three made successful landings....successful in that nobody died.
Sandy McNabb
--
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