Subject: RV4 taIl.
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 6/27/2011, 9:57 PM
To: AAA Put this in the To box


 Can any of you RV builders tell me how I can tighten this nut and
 bolt?
 No wrenches or sockets I have fit. This is built according to the
 plans and with the AN nut and bolt called out in the plans.

 I sure hope Van gave a little more thought to assembly when
 he designed the later airplanes.

 Paul Lamar

 Paul,

 Try contacting Snapon distribution in Carson City, NV. Cheryl
 Borchard.
 (775)883-7455 Ext210 E-mail CherylK.Borchard@snapon.com

 Dale Davies


 Paul,

 What size is the bolt? Somehow I was getting the extra keyboard
 features
 symbols instead of /?. I think i have it now. Cheryl is at the
 distibution
 center and can get you in touch with a franchizee. You can then
 phone them
 to meet if you need to get special tool

 It looks to me like an offset or angle wrench would work fine. Other
 suppliers make them also. A crowsfoot socket would also work if
 torqueing is
 required.

 Dale Davies

 1/4 28.

 Not enough clearance for a box end wrench. Even Snap ON.
 Perhaps a Snap On socket but I have not tried it yet.
 I kind of doubt even a snap on socket would fit.

 The answer is an NS 12 point bolt and nut.

 Paul

 Paul Lamar

 Paul,


 You could take a deep socket that would otherwise fit the bolt, and
 then grind away a wide 'slot' near the opening, enough to allow the
 socket to fit onto the nut and also allow turning. Then you could
 simply use a ratchet handle to turn it. The socket might not spring
 open too much and allow you to tighten the nut. You wouldn't need
 a thin walled socket either...you could use a very thick walled socket
 which would resist springing open since the opening would allow
 placing the socket in place. Yes, you would have to remove the
 socket and replace it with each turn...perhaps just use this method
 for final tightening.

 Gene Kahn


 Paul,
 Have kept out of this so far as I do not have an RV. However I
 can see your problem and suggest depending on what load the bolt has to
 take
 , that you substitute a "Cap screw" which as you know has an "Alan key"
 head
 which may be able to be substituted instead of the "Star" head bolt you are
 dealing with. Another $.02 worth.

 Neil.


 That certainly is an option. One of the features of AN hardware, and this
 applies to NS and MS hardware well, is the exact grip length is important.
 One does not want the threaded portion of a bolt bearing on thin sheet
 metal brackets. AN hardware is almost always used with one or more AN
 washers. Aircraft hard ware therefore comes in grip length of 1/16"
 increments.

 Also everything else about the hardware is controlled and specified.
 Maternal,
 heat treat and dimensions are held to close tolerance.

 You don't see that in commercial cap screws. Frequently commercial hardware
 is stronger especially grade 8 but not always.

 Paul Lamar


 There are lower profile AN hex nuts.. Something like this:

 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/MS21042.php

 I believe they are made in locking flavors too, but I'm not sure.


 Regards,

 Matt-

 Would work if it came in self locking.
 AC Spruce does not carry the full line of AN MS or NAS.

 Paul Lamar


I think Dale was right when he suggested a crows foot wrench.


  Mark LaPierre

We tried one. It did not work.

I ordered MS 12 point nuts and bolts from this outfit.
http://www.coastfab.com/contact%20us.html
http://www.coastfab.com/hardware.html


They also sell round mufflers. In general for a rotary muffler mounted under
the fuse you want  A 3.5 diameter as long as possible faired in
with thin SS from the middle up to the fuse bottom skin as in this picture.

This minimizes the aero drag.

http://www.coastfab.com/mufflersale.html

Paul Lamar

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