Brian Trubee and Dave Leonard.
How much slack do you have in your RV tail wheel chains?
Have you ever tried no slack?
Paul Lamar
The length changes as you change the rudder from side to side. There
should
be just enough slack so that it does not restrict in either direction.
That
means very little slack.
Better yet, I highly recommend one of these:
http://www.flyboyaccessories.**com/store/index.php?main_page=**
product_info&cPath=66&**products_id=242<
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=242
those chains have a tendency to break, the like is far neater. You can
check mine out next time I fly up.
Also, if Mike has not already changed it out, I highly highly recommend the
full-swivel tail wheel. Makes moving the plane around SOOO much easier.
Found at Vans Store:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/**cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=**
1309503585-362-393&browse=**airframe&product=tailwheel-**assy<
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1309503585-362-393&browse=airframe&product=tailwheel-assy
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net <
http://n4vy.rotaryroster.net/
http://RotaryRoster.net <
http://rotaryroster.net/
I have the full swivel. It looks like this. I set up with no slack. In
other
words the springs are slightly preloaded with about half a pound each.
BAG 489 in the Vans catalog page 78.
There appears to be as many opinions on tail wheels as there are RV fliers
:)
Some say slack is good in a cross wind landing. I suspect if there is a
difference in track angle and rudder angle the wheel will pop into
auto swivel.
Paul Lamar
Ops here is the picture.
PL
Yup, that is perfect. The big thing is the full swivel. I don't see any
big advantage to slack, though it does make sense that in a big cross wind
you might want more rudder while the wheel is a tracking straighter. OTOH,
the whole key to not ground looping a tail dragger is staying on top of that
heading... "dancing on the pedals". I think that would be harder with a
bunch of slack in the system.
A difference in track angle would not release the swivel. That occurs when
the wheel gets to a certain angle and is unrelated to the position of the
rudder. If the springs are too tight, it can be difficult to release the
swivel.
The chains work just fine. The steering link is a relatively minor
improvement that is more about weight, cosmetics, drag reduction and
durability. I did break two chains in my first 70 hours flying so I went to
the link. I finally broke it after 500 hrs or so but it cost less to fix
than buying a new chain.
I need to get you that GPS so you can get it installed too. Got any plans
for the weekend of the 9-10th?
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
I agree on the bunch of slack. Slack or slop is always a bad idea in a control
system.
Here is a little trick I discovered at the hardware store. This is salvaged from
a bicycle chain #50 link. It is difficult if not impossible to connect Vans egg
shaped wire clips with out some slack in the chain. What one needs is some kind
of clevis one can merely pass a AN-3 bolt through it with a castellated nut and
cotter pin. I searched high and low in the MS and NS parts catalogs and found
nothing suitable. So I disassembled the bicycle chain link and used the hardened
steel link parts. These links are hardened to the nth degree to reduce wear.
Don't try to drill them out. Get the right size. Worked like a charm. Here are
some pictures.
No plans on the 9-10th. Remind me to make some noise measurements on
your airplane.
Paul Lamar
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