Hi Paul!

  I believe you are scheduled to speak at Whiteman Airport this month. I
  will
  try to bring my firewall backward setup from my cozy4 as a display. I
  should
  easily have the tube frame built and set up on an engine stand. I need one
  of your Rhino drawings to start the tube frame. I can also bring a
  dismantled rx7 engine to put on the table, and should have some soldered
  aluminum tube p ports ready to show. I will be purchasing a reduction
  unit,
  and bell housing soon, and may have it there as well.

  I plan on using megasquirt to start with, for the ignition/injection
  stuff,
  and am going to purchase one or more of the atmel boards to see what I can
  do with that. I also plan on using a motorcycle stator/alternator setup
  for
  ignition backup.

  Can you recommend a pc based oscilloscope? usb style maybe?

  Ed Carver

  Whiteman on July 16th 10:30 AM.
  Maybe we can talk Dave Leonard into flying his RV6 up.
  Or Steve Thomas Glasair from Santa Barbara.
  Randy's one rotor Dragon Fly and Mike's RV4 are not quite ready to fly.

  I don't have any direct experience with PC based oscilloscope.
  However for our purposes this device will do everything
  we need done for way less money. Less than $100.
  It will give you valuable feed back data on your EFI in the
  bargain. It will tell you what happens when and how much.

  You will need to add some $10 pressure sensors if you
  are looking at manifold pressure or air speed. It is also
  a good idea to use $1 opto isolators if you are looking for digital
  events such as ignition coil and injector triggers.

  I have successfully used this one but there are several others on the
  market
  for about the same amount of money. Search Data Acquisition.

  http://www.hytekautomation.******com/ <http://www.hytekautomation.****
 com/<http://www.**hytekautomation.com/ <http://www.hytekautomation.com/




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  Paul Lamar

  Ed,
           I am also building a Cozy MKIV with a Turbo Rotary 13B. I
  purchased my reduction drive from Tracy Crook of Real World Solutions and
  purchased the engine frame from the Cozy Girrrls. It is a really nice
  set-up. It allows for the oil pan to be attached as part of the frame. I
 am
  currently working on the cooling system for the engine and the Turbo. I am
  looking into a water to air heat exchanger for the intercooler, does
 anyone
  have any suggestions on which one I should use? Also I am looking for
  suggestions for the coolant tank/reservoir and oil cooler. There was a
  discussion concerning mufflers some time ago, what ended up being the
  muffler to use on airplanes that can handle the heat and not come apart?
  Any
  suggestions for the wiring the EC3 to the engine?


  James Ealey



 Hi James; I am about to purchase a lot of the stuff you mentioned above, so
 I will be looking at cozy girls frame and perhaps copy some of it. Paul may
 have sent me a Rhino drawing for the frame a year ago or so.

 My opinion about air to water intercoolers is that we don't need the extra
 complexity. There have been no air to water intercoolers used in endurance
 racing for a very long time, if ever. The cozy will do fine keeping the
 charge pressure close to 30", not much need to cool the inlet. Plus, from
 what I have read here, when you inject fuel into P port intake runners just
 after the intercooler, they practically freeze. Paul has posted some photos
 showing what I believe is the best placement for the intercooler, that is,
 above the plugs, on the inlet end of the P port tubes. The Subaru Wrx type
 intercooler is similar to what Paul has shown in his drawings. There are a
 seemingly endless number Wrx intercoolers for sale on ebay;-cheap.

 I would say avoid the extra tubes, hoses, etc, for an for an air to water
 intercooler, keep the plumbing tubes as simple and straight as possible,
 (few bends),  get some of Jeff's Wiggins couplings, avoid any long lengths
 of hose, plan on keeping your water pressure around 30 psi.

 I believe if your turbine A/R is at .9 or over, which mine will be, then
 you
 won't be trying to get much boost at sea level. I am building my craft for
 long range travel above 10k feet. With a standard car turbo, you could
 easily boost your engine up to 400hp. I believe the cozy only needs about
 170hp to cruse at 175 knots. Probably less hp than that.

 I am planing on using inconel for the exhaust manifold before the turbo,
 but
 stainless after the turbo. If I use a muffler, any internal parts will be
 inconel. I need to find the local supplier for the inconel accordion
 sections used to help prevent cracks in the exhaust.

 The mazda rx7/8 oil coolers should be sufficient, possibly use two of them.
 Make sure not to reverse the flow if you use them. The oil must flow in the
 direction the cooler was designed for, or the internal diffusers will
 collapse and plug up the works. Some of them have a build in thermostat.

 I am going to try out Megasquirt, along with a backup ignition system using
 a motorcycle stator/alternator. I already own a bunch of Megasquirt stuff.

 I will be consulting with John Slade for the basics of how to fit it all
 together on the back of the cozy4. He has the only turbo rotary cozy 4
 flying.

 Ed Carver


 That CG MM is a very poor design.
 http://www.rotaryeng.net/**motor.html<http://www.rotaryeng.net/motor.html

 We used a stock RX7 inter cooler on this FW package.
 A P-port version would be icing on the cake with less
 boost required for the same HP.

 Paul Lamar


The intercooler setup in the pics is about what I have in mind. As well the
motor mount. I just hav'nt gotten out there to measure yet, nor talked to
other builders of cozy4 rotaries about approx dimensions/angles.

I am going to try to make it to the EAA meetn at Whiteman airport on Sat. with
my RX8 long block. My transmission on my 2000 MPV has failed, so now I am in
a rush to finish it before then.

Ed Carver

I have Cozy dwg's as I designed John Slade's motor mount.
He did not build it as drawn however. We had a falling out
over that :) I just need to up date it for Jeff's motor plate.

Paul Lamar