Let's try this link.


 http://www.lexami.com/pdf%20files/rd-1c%20manual%20and%20photos.zip


 William Hagood


That works, looks like the prop shaft small end actually centers in and
rides in the bronze bearing in the big end of the sun gear. The sun gear has
one pin passing through the input shaft. What I can't see is what the back
side of the sun gear looks like inside. One of the images shows the bronze
still in place, so I guess that is what I would see.

I have all of the planet related parts. I do not know what was done to make
the input shaft. At least two of the shafts in the trans have the correct
spline, the center shaft and another, one of the long shafts. The center
shaft inside bore is too large to be modified to fit inside the sun gear.
The other long shaft would need a sleeve to bring the OD out to the size of
the planet ID. The photos of the input shaft do not appear to show a sleeve.


I can't quite tell what the input shaft thrust bearings are supposed to be
thrusting against. To do the new damper, should these be riding against the
modified drum to keep it from moving rearward?

I'll be working on getting the damper plate made, then after that is sorted,
maybe work on building a tube shaft unit just for the sake of saving weight
and designing it to carry its own gear lube and pump. Almost everything on
the planet end will be similar according to Pauls drawings. The tube shaft
will need to be driven by the planet in a different fashion.


Thanks again William.

Ed Carver


You may have to have the input shaft machined Ed. Some of the latter
sun gear ID's are too large for the stock parts to be easily adapted.

The thrust comes from the helical sun gear trying to unscrew itself.
The load used to go into the e-shaft needle thrust bearing in the front
of the engine. That only lasted about 500 hours at relatively low
power in those days. Ross added the thrust bearings in later boxes
but Tracy discovered that on his own.

There is a long history there.


Paul Lamar