Let's try this link.



http://www.lexami.com/pdf%**20files/rd-1c%20manual%20and%**20photos.zip<http://www.lexami.com/pdf%20files/rd-1c%20manual%20and%20photos.zip


  William Hagood


  That works, looks like the prop shaft small end actually centers in and
  rides in the bronze bearing in the big end of the sun gear. The sun gear
  has
  one pin passing through the input shaft. What I can't see is what the back
  side of the sun gear looks like inside. One of the images shows the bronze
  still in place, so I guess that is what I would see.

  I have all of the planet related parts. I do not know what was done to
 make
  the input shaft. At least two of the shafts in the trans have the correct
  spline, the center shaft and another, one of the long shafts. The center
  shaft inside bore is too large to be modified to fit inside the sun gear.
  The other long shaft would need a sleeve to bring the OD out to the size
 of
  the planet ID. The photos of the input shaft do not appear to show a
  sleeve.


  I can't quite tell what the input shaft thrust bearings are supposed to be
  thrusting against. To do the new damper, should these be riding against
 the
  modified drum to keep it from moving rearward?

  I'll be working on getting the damper plate made, then after that is
  sorted,
  maybe work on building a tube shaft unit just for the sake of saving
 weight
  and designing it to carry its own gear lube and pump. Almost everything on
  the planet end will be similar according to Pauls drawings. The tube shaft
  will need to be driven by the planet in a different fashion.


  Thanks again William.

  Ed Carver


  You may have to have the input shaft machined Ed. Some of the latter
  sun gear ID's are too large for the stock parts to be easily adapted.

  The thrust comes from the helical sun gear trying to unscrew itself.
  The load used to go into the e-shaft needle thrust bearing in the front
  of the engine. That only lasted about 500 hours at relatively low
  power in those days. Ross added the thrust bearings in later boxes
  but Tracy discovered that on his own.

  There is a long history there.


  Paul Lamar


 That means we cannot push on the rubber damper assem, and need a spacer
 between the plate that presently takes the thrust from the sun gear, and
 the
 surface of the drum to keep the damper from walking back from the flex
 plate.

 Well, dang, the splines might be toughest part then.

 Ed Carver

 I am not sure I understand what you are saying here.

 Try making as sketch of what it is you are saying.

 The female splined bulkhead will bottom out on the end of the splines. If
 there
 is some rubber expansion in the damper it will tend to reduce the force
 on the helical gear thrust bearings and transfer that same force to
 the e-shaft thrust bearing at the front of the engine. Currently there
 is no load on the e-shaft thrust bearing.

 Now it is possible to design the concave rubber blocks with enough
 expansion
 clearance so no axial force will be generated.

 Paul Lamar


The drawing shows the sun gear thrust bearings thrusting against the "bell
housing". Not shown fully, is the female splined drum, but we know it is
there. I am assuming we want the input shaft pilot to ride in the pilot hole
of the e-shaft. The drawing seems to show the end of the shaft splines
butted up against the e-shaft.

The photo has the input shaft passing through the drum splines presumably to
rest in the pilot bearing. There is a space between the the thrust bearings
of the sun gear, and the face of the drum splines. It is this space that may
need to be filled with something. Perhaps more thrust bearings inside the
bell. I can't see what will keep the damper from moving from it's place If
we don't.

Your new damper does not appear to extend as far out from the e-shaft as
Tracys damper does. So what am I missing if anything? Are you saying that if
the damper moves out, that it will just stop against where the splines end.
The photo appears to show the shaft as just described.

Really though, I don't need to know this. I just need to build the damper
the way you want. I can sort out these spacing issues when the time comes to
create an input shaft if I want. And so long as you are fully aware of these
dimensions, there will be no problem.

Ed Carver

Dave had to shorten the female splined plate to get the flywheel in there
so you have that adjustment. The current length of the spline is more
than enough to transmit the torque.

You might want to mock it up in cheap steel.

Paul Lamar