Hello Paul,

  Does anyone have any experience using stainless steel flex radiator hose?
  KMJ Performance carries a 48" universal kit for $57.00.  Any thoughts?

  William Hagood

  Chuck Dunlap has used it for years.
  Pictures are on the front page of the web site.
  Did you see them?

  Be sure to use Breeze constant tension house clamps.
  It is better to use aluminum tubing I suspect but can't prove
  it as it should speed the flow of water with less pressure drop.

  If you want the best and most reliable long term use tig welded
  Wiggins couplings and aluminum tubing also shown on the front page
  of the web site near the bottom. These are universally used in airliners
  and Formula 1 race cars.

  If you use silicone rubber hose and aluminum tubing be sure to bead
  the tubing.

  At 15 psi water pressure and 1.5" diameter water plumping tube there
  is about 26 pounds of force trying to pull the hose off the tube.

  At 30 psi the force is 52 pounds. A 30 psi pressure cap is a good
  idea to use as it raises the boiling temperature of the fluid.
  Absolutely the last thing you want to have happen in an airplane is
  boiling the fluid as it will all be pumped over board.

  Get my $30 Christmas special on my book How to Cool Your Wankel.

  http://www.rotaryeng.net/how-to-cool12.html

  Send some pictures of your cooling system. If you think you might
  not want to be possibly embarrassed ( I would never do that) put the
  word PRIVATE in the subject box and I will keep the pictures and
  info secret. Years ago cooling the rotary was the hardest thing to
  achieve but over the past 12 years that problem has largely gone
  away due to a sharing of experience on here.

  Paul Lamar



  With all the ribs in the tube it will induce turbulent flow. That is good in
 the radiator. Causes extra friction in the tube which slows the flow rate. I
 would make the coolant hoses out of aluminum and weld it up with mandrel
 bends. Then use straight silicone hose or the Wiggins couplings.

 Dale Davies

Thanks.  I bought your book last year and find it invaluable.  I'm trying to
finish up the airframe of my Zenith 801 and keep toying with engine ideas in
the abstract so no concrete cooling system yet.  Still puzzling how to keep
all the engine parts under the cowl!

William Hagood

Here is how Kenith Arron did it.

http://www.zenith.aero/profile/KennethAron

Latest Activity Oct 14th 2010

Engine start! Engine started on the third spin. I didn't let it run for
more than a couple seconds, but it fired right up!

Jeff's Motor Plate saves room and weight over the beam showed here.
Shown on the bottom of our website first page.

Paul Lamar