Subject: flex plate damper mockup
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 12/17/2011, 11:26 AM
To: AAA Put this in the To box


 Hi Paul!

     Here's a couple pics of the acrylic damper assem mockup.
 Presently,   the  original 6.9" diameter for the damper section
 looks to be a  little too  small when using the 1/2x1x7/8 blocks, as
 there is  conflict with the large  washer ring. The image shows the blocks
   standing on their 7/8 side, instead  of the one inch side, and it's
   still a bit too large.

     What do you suggest is the next step?

     Ed Carver

     Looking good Ed.

     The shaft project has run into a snag. I need to get the
 material back.    Michael that owns all those big lathes was forced
 to get a full  time  job to pay the bills. He just was not getting
 enough biz to  keep the  doors open. I'll see if I can get in touch
 with him  tomorrow after  his work. I may be able to cut them to
 length with a  carbide chop  saw I have. Jim thinks he can do it
 with his lathe.  Just not as fast  as Michael.
     ------------------------------**------------------------------**-----

     As to the flex plate what rubber blocks are you using?
     I assumed we would use custom molded rubber blocks to fit.

     At least that is what I said in an old message in Sept.

     -------- Original Message --------
     Subject: Gear box pictures
     Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:08:01 -0700
     From: Rotary Engine <rotaryeng@earthlink.net
     To: AAA Put this in the To box <rotaryeng@earthlink.net

     lots of snips....

     "Now it is possible to design the concave rubber blocks with enough
     expansion
     clearance so no axial force will be generated."

     ------------------------------**----------------------

     OK I think I have it figured out. What you are saying is the 1"
 by  .5"  rectangular tubing  is too big to fit the 6.9 inch diameter
 and  the stock steel clamp ring.

     I probably made a mistake on measuring the clamp ring diameter.
   What  number do you  have on that?

     We can do one of two things. Cut down the clamp ring plate in a
   lathe or  go up on the 6.9" dimension  slightly. What do you think?

     Paul Lamar

   It's why we made a mockup. The ring diameter is odd in that it
   extends outward past the bolt centers more than it does inward.
   Seems natural move the diameter out at least .200". The ring is
   5.115" OD.

   Is there in the plans something to contain the rubber on the inside
   diameter of the .5x1" blocks? The spline plate inward extension
 will  ride about .100" off of the e shaft.

   The spline plate as shown in my photo does not have the OD cut down
   to your spec. That is because I am not sure if I will use it. I am
   going to use a longer input shaft, and hence, a different spline plate.

   Gotta do what you gotta do Michael. I'd be in the same boat if it
   were not for the mass of old porsches and parts I collected over
 the  past 25 years. Even with the bust of the Euro, Germans still
 want  their lawn mower engine powered old 911's back. (I will always
 tease  porsche lovers because they whine too much when they lose at the
   track) ;)

   A chop saw will easily cut the alum shaft material. I may be able
 to  get the shaft bored in the EAA hanger. We have a couple lathes
 in  there, but they are on the small side and I would need to create
  some sort of bearings to hold the shaft at it's longest extension
  out from the chuck.

     Perhaps Michael can do it as a side job. Can 4.5" material fit
   into the bore of that chuck? The easy part for him would have been
   turning the housing, which has a much larger diameter. That part is
   probably out of my size range because it it too long for my mill.

   Ed Carver

   To cut it down to fit it must be 4.750" dia..

   What we have going for us is the large 4130 plate is .096 thick
   while the mild steel stock plate is .062" thick.

   I'll try to have another talk with Michael today.

   Here is flex plate rev 4 with with a 7.586 diameter.

   We measures Jim's chuck and we can get 4 inches in there no problem.

   Things are getting hectic around here so after Christmas is going
 to  be it.

   We have a pack of relatives staying with us.

   Paul Lamar

 Ed,

   If you want to have fun with the Porch guys, stuff a GM LS3 into a
 Beemer3. Use the T56 trans from the Firebird/Camaro and the diff
 from a Beemer V12 car. With a bit of port work, a cam change and
 tune it is 525HP at the rear wheels. Scare the hell out of the Porch
 and blower Mustang guys.

 Dale Davies

 How about a 690 HP p-port 4 rotor?

 Paul Lamar

 Yup, that would do it all right. The Government Motors engine might be a bit
more torquey though for street operation. How would the four rotor engine
length be compared to the LS3? No problem installing in the Beemer as you
remove the I6. They tell me the LS takes 50 pounds off the front end as it is
all aluminum and shorter than the I6 engine that has a cast Fe block, so it
actually handles better.

Dale Davies

It is about the same as LS1.

Max torque is 442 ft pounds at 6200 RPM. Do you want to tow or do you
want to go? :)

Paul Lamar



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