Hi Paul!

      Here's a couple pics of the acrylic damper assem mockup.
  Presently,   the  original 6.9" diameter for the damper section
  looks to be a  little too  small when using the 1/2x1x7/8 blocks,
 as  there is  conflict with the large  washer ring. The image shows
the blocks    standing on their 7/8 side, instead  of the one inch
side, and it's    still a bit too large.

      What do you suggest is the next step?

      Ed Carver

      Looking good Ed.

      The shaft project has run into a snag. I need to get the
  material back.    Michael that owns all those big lathes was forced
  to get a full  time  job to pay the bills. He just was not getting
  enough biz to  keep the  doors open. I'll see if I can get in touch
  with him  tomorrow after  his work. I may be able to cut them to
  length with a  carbide chop  saw I have. Jim thinks he can do it
  with his lathe.  Just not as fast  as Michael.
      ------------------------------**------------------------------**-----

      As to the flex plate what rubber blocks are you using?
      I assumed we would use custom molded rubber blocks to fit.

      At least that is what I said in an old message in Sept.

      -------- Original Message --------
      Subject: Gear box pictures
      Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:08:01 -0700
      From: Rotary Engine <rotaryeng@earthlink.net
      To: AAA Put this in the To box <rotaryeng@earthlink.net

      lots of snips....

      "Now it is possible to design the concave rubber blocks with enough
      expansion
      clearance so no axial force will be generated."

      ------------------------------**----------------------

      OK I think I have it figured out. What you are saying is the 1"
  by  .5"  rectangular tubing  is too big to fit the 6.9 inch
diameter  and  the stock steel clamp ring.

      I probably made a mistake on measuring the clamp ring diameter.
    What  number do you  have on that?

      We can do one of two things. Cut down the clamp ring plate in a
    lathe or  go up on the 6.9" dimension  slightly. What do you think?

      Paul Lamar

    It's why we made a mockup. The ring diameter is odd in that it
    extends outward past the bolt centers more than it does inward.
    Seems natural move the diameter out at least .200". The ring is
    5.115" OD.

    Is there in the plans something to contain the rubber on the inside
    diameter of the .5x1" blocks? The spline plate inward extension
  will  ride about .100" off of the e shaft.

    The spline plate as shown in my photo does not have the OD cut down
    to your spec. That is because I am not sure if I will use it. I
am    going to use a longer input shaft, and hence, a different
spline plate.

    Gotta do what you gotta do Michael. I'd be in the same boat if it
    were not for the mass of old porsches and parts I collected over
  the  past 25 years. Even with the bust of the Euro, Germans still
  want  their lawn mower engine powered old 911's back. (I will
always  tease  porsche lovers because they whine too much when they
lose at the    track) ;)

    A chop saw will easily cut the alum shaft material. I may be able
  to  get the shaft bored in the EAA hanger. We have a couple lathes
  in  there, but they are on the small side and I would need to
create   some sort of bearings to hold the shaft at it's longest extension
   out from the chuck.

      Perhaps Michael can do it as a side job. Can 4.5" material fit
    into the bore of that chuck? The easy part for him would have
been    turning the housing, which has a much larger diameter. That
part is    probably out of my size range because it it too long for
my mill.

    Ed Carver

    To cut it down to fit it must be 4.750" dia..

    What we have going for us is the large 4130 plate is .096 thick
    while the mild steel stock plate is .062" thick.

    I'll try to have another talk with Michael today.

    Here is flex plate rev 4 with with a 7.586 diameter.

    We measures Jim's chuck and we can get 4 inches in there no problem.

    Things are getting hectic around here so after Christmas is going
  to  be it.

    We have a pack of relatives staying with us.

    Paul Lamar

  Ed,

    If you want to have fun with the Porch guys, stuff a GM LS3 into
a  Beemer3. Use the T56 trans from the Firebird/Camaro and the diff
from a Beemer V12 car. With a bit of port work, a cam change and
 tune it is 525HP at the rear wheels. Scare the hell out of the
Porch  and blower Mustang guys.

  Dale Davies

  How about a 690 HP p-port 4 rotor?

  Paul Lamar

  Yup, that would do it all right. The Government Motors engine
might be a bit more torquey though for street operation. How would
the four rotor engine length be compared to the LS3? No problem
installing in the Beemer as you remove the I6. They tell me the LS
takes 50 pounds off the front end as it is all aluminum and shorter
than the I6 engine that has a cast Fe block, so it actually handles better.

Dale Davies

It is about the same as LS1.

Max torque is 442 ft pounds at 6200 RPM. Do you want to tow or do you
want to go? :)

Paul Lamar


If you are using the engine in a car of Beemer 3 size, towing is not the
plan. The V8 will have strong torque at low RPM to accelerate off lights and
out of corners. A four rotor is not as readily available. Lots of people are
not comfortable with rotaries. I understand your point and would like to try
it. A mild turbo on a 20B would be more readily available option with that HP
easy to obtain. The p-port 20B is about 375 HP and add the turbo for 700 HP.

Dale Davies