I've got a turbo 20B which I have rebuilt twice now. I've sorted out wiring
issues, had Tracy's EC repaired, checked the timing, checked for fuel and
spark; repeatedly. The engine was, possibly among other things, flooded.
Today I even tried engine starter fluid. I cannot get the engine to even
cough or sputter as if i's even trying to start.
Is there anyone within a reasonable driving distance of Canton, GA, an hour
north of ATL. With Rotary and preferably Tracy EC experience as well that
might consider giving me a visit for some assistance getting this thing
started? I'd be happy to pay your travel expenses. Ive exchanged numerous
emails with Tracy, this newsletter and Mr. Anderson to no avail. I am at
my wits end.
Jay
Ed Anderson might fly in from NC.
Flooding is unlikely for a 20B.
Is the compression now good?
I assume the spark timing has been checked.
Do the injectors squirt?
Do you have a manifold pressure gage on there?
Can you borrow an oscilloscope from some body.
There is also a free program that uses the audio microphone jack
on all PC's as an input to a software O-scope.
Use that to check the CAS. It works great on my Linux machine.
http://www.zeitnitz.de/Christian/scope_en
http://www.picotech.com/picoscope-oscilloscope-software.html
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/general-electronics-chat/38689-good-cheap-free-pc-oscilloscope-program.html
I do recall reading your emails on this subject.
Send a picture of the intake manifold and injector locations.
Apply 18 volts to the starter. Three 6 volt batteries in series.
Don't let it crank for more than 15 seconds at a time. You
could over heat the starter.
If all else fails I fly UAL (retired A&P wife) for a modest cost if you could
meet me at ATL and provide room and board for a couple of days. Or I could rent
a car. The wife would want to come along :)
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A couple more questions Jay. Are you an experienced electronic technician?
If not it is real easy to make a mistake wiring Tracy's EFI.
One wire on the wrong pin or one bad connection and it wont work.
It is also very very difficult to trouble shoot as each tiny wire
is hard to attach a voltmeter or scope prob to.
IMHO it is due to Tracy's choice of connector and wire specified.
It is very very difficult to wire this unless you have a lot
of experience as an electronic technician.
This is what I do to make it much easier to wire and repair if I make a
mistake. I use a device called a break out board and colored wire.
Much easier to check.
Coils, injectors and PCM connections are all in separate bundles
with color coded wires. A good place to get some off this stuff is
yacht stores. Boat wiring is some of the most demanding in terms
of robustness and durability.
Here are some pictures.
Next message I will show how a simple low cost data aq system
can monitor the changing voltages on all of these wires in real
time while the engine is running and display the info on a PC.
Paul Lamar
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