Anybody have experience with a failed Suburu Head gasket.
Milo was on the way from Washington to Texas and made it as
far as SZP. Then the Soob engine had a mysterious over heating
problem towing a trailer.
Paul Lamar
No experience with Soob and blown head gasket, but with a Dodge
Minivan, I
had an overheating problem that seemed 'mysterious'.
It would overheat, and when you checked the coolant reservoir it
would be
full. When the engine cooled, the reservoir would go down as expected.
The problem was a small leak in the head gasket, which would put
combustion
gas into the cylinder space, driving the coolant out of the
engine and into the overflow reservoir.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
Bill, did you try any chemical sealants such as duraseal or
steel seal?
Paul Lamar
Yes I have as that is my business and I rebuild 3 to 4 engines a
week, no
none of those sealants will work as the problem is the combustion
pressure
is pushing past the gaskets into the water system and pushing the
water out
the burp tank and so there is no way to plug the leak unless you could
get
the sealant into the combustion chamber to shove it into the hole
thats leaking, hate to say it but you are best to go for a whole
engine as you can mill the heads when you replace a head gasket
but you cannot mill the block and the block warps as much or
more than the heads so if you put a new gasket on a straight head
and a warped block it wont last long, I can do a compete long
block for $1500 to $1600 depending on which engine it is and I
fix all the problems that Subaru had to make it better than new.
Give me a call if you need more info. Ken
360-834-4089
I don't know which engine is in that Subaru, but my sister has
one and it had a bad head gasket and this is a known problem.
They have an improved replacement gasket that fixes it but they
didn't do a recall and replace it on their dime.
Steve Brazil
The good news is as far as Milo and family are concerned is they were
able to plug
the leak with goo. After the engine cooled off it sucked all the
coolant back
out of the over flow can. That would not have happened if the leak
still existed.
That is part of the process. If the exhaust valve and intake
valve is closed hot air in the cylinder cools off causing a low
pressure in the cylinder drawing the sealant into the leak. This
is somewhat of a crap shoot as the leak must occur around the
cylinder that happens to stop in that sealed condition. Also of
course the coolant itself also contracts drawing coolant in from
the over flow can.
There has been several recent breakthroughs in these stop leak
type fluids. Prior to these breakthroughs most stop leak type
products required you to purge the engine of antifreeze coolant.
This is no longer true of the better products. The other
breakthrough is a chemical reaction that is triggered by the high
400 to 500 F metal temperatures that causes the goo to solidify in the
area
of the leak but not in the radiator.
Here is the web site that claims to be the best.
It is called Steel Seal. It is a clear liquid with no particulate
matter at all. It is rather expensive at $70 and they claim to
have an iron clad patent. "The product is drawn into the damaged
area and seals the crack with a thermo-chemical bonding process."
I have not tried it on a leaking rotary yet but
it sounds promising to fix the shrunk rotor housing problem due to
extreme over
heating of the rotary. Milo has some on order to test it on the soob
if the
stuff we actually used fails.
https://secure.steelseal.com/index.php/t2b
Paul Lamar
Re Overheating Soob. Most Subaru's only have electric fans and
sometimes the switch in the radiator fails to switch on and causes
a overheating porblem, can happen if people turn off the air/con, because
the air/con turns the fans on even if the engine is not hot, then
without the air/con turned on the fans you have NO fans at all!!
Can also have a overheating problem only when towing because the
radiator tubes are partly blocked internally, and so not enough reserve
cooling available, so the engine overheats, will also happen if the
radiator cap is not holding at least 14/15 psi.
John Burey
It was definitely a head gasket. IMHO here is why head gasket problems
on the Soob are common. Not enough head bolts. Too much distance
between bolts allows the aluminum head to deflect between bolts.
Paul Lamar
Here is the Chevy LS1 V8 head bolt spacing with about the same bore
and center to center spacing. Also with an aluminum head.
LS1 head gasket failures are less common.
The Soob engine needs to be redesigned.
Paul Lamar
I use ARP head studs on my race engines and offer them to people with
grocery getters for extra insurance, with these studs they will
handle 45 lbs of boost at 700 plus hp, for more boost you can tap
out the case and run oversize studs as the next thing that will
happen to the threads will pull out if your replacing the head
gaskets get the original OEM multi layer steel gaskets from Subaru
and if its a 2.5 ask for the gaskets for a 97 outback regardless
of what year it is, that is the gasket that I put on all my engines
including the turbo engine, also spray the head gasket with
permatex copper spray, with that it should get you home but it will probably
give problems latter as chances are that the case, heads and
cylinders are warped if it has overheated and that is why I mill
the case and heads and bore the cylinders 20 over on all the
engines I rebuild.
Ken
In the case of the Soob, unlike the rotary, the strength or stiffness
of the studs does not help much.
Consider the cylinder head a simply supported beam. Deflection is
proportional to the cube of the distance (l) between the bolts.
http://www.codecogs.com/reference/engineering/materials/beams/simply_supported_beams.php
A reduction in stud spacing from 4 inches to 3 inches will halve
the head deflection. 4 cubed is 64 while 3 cubed is only 27.
Paul Lamar
-
Sounds good on paper but I am not a paper person I am telling you what
works from experience, I have rebuilt over 400 engines and never had
a head gasket problem on a single one of them, if it will work at 45
lbs of boost it will work just find on a non turbo engine, also what
year is it??? if its 2001 or later put a 12mm oil pump in it as they
went to smaller 7mm pump and they have rod bearing problems, call me
before you put this back together as there is too much info for email.
Ken
I don't think Milo is going to rebuild it. The car is not worth it.
He will probably junk it. I don't know what year it is. Too bad it
did not break down in your neck of the woods.
Have you tried 6 studs per bore? That is basically what the Chev has.
What works in drag racing or on the street does not work in aircraft
engines or trailer towing applications that are generating
significant power hour after hour. IMHO the Soob engine is a
defective design for aircraft use. The horizontal opposed feature is
a good point as it reduces the weight.
I will say one thing about the soob crank. The rod bearings are so narrow
oil pressure would leak out the sides so they very cleverly reduced
the side clearance to trap the oil in the bearing. This allowed them
to use a closer bore spacing and keep the over all length of the
engine down.
Too bad they did not go to six head studs while they were at it :)
Next time you get a chance weigh an SVX for me. I can't seem to find
the weight anywhere on the Internet.
Paul Lamar
Paul,
You have to admit the GM LS series engines are a good design. Power and
reasonable fuel economy. Simple to work on. More so than the equivalent Ford
or Chrysler engines. One of the hot rod magazines asked readers what they
wanted and it came back- hang a turbo on an LS and beat it to death. They got
the boost up and it put out 1200HP. Then they found out it was a 4.8L. They
then took mercy on it and relented. Not bad for stock rods and pistons.
Dale Davies
It is OK for street engine. The question is how long will it last
at 75% peak power?
Paul Lamar
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