Subject: Welding cast iron
From: rotaryeng
Date: 5/3/2012, 8:09 PM
To: AAAA Put this in the To box



     Do you have a  known thickness for a header for the turbo that
   will work   for this application? I have found several made from SS,
   but I want   to make sure that they will not burn through in the air.


     Kevin Alderman

     The stock 2nd gen will work but most used ones are already
   cracked.   The sharp machined edges need to be radius-ed with a die
  grander.

     V out the cracks and weld them up. It will last 5 years.

     Paul Lamar

     What is the welding procedure you recommend? There is high Nickel
   arc rod or preheat and Oxy Acetylene weld with cast rod that I know
   of. I know some cylinder blocks welded in non structural areas with
   the nickel rod. In the exhaust, I would expect cracking beside the weld.

   Dale Davies

   I am no expert on the subject. Larry Childs welded a front end
   housing for me and he says the secret is... heat it in an oven
   before welding and make sure it cools very slowly.

   Paul Lamar

   Every time I've tried to weld on cast Fe all I got was a maze of cracks
   no matter what combination of weld wire/preheat I used.  YMMV

    Mark LaPierre

   Maybe Larry will reveal his secrets.

   Paul Lamar



   I know oxyacetylene welding with pre heat and cast iron rod works. I have
  had
  manifolds done this way for old cars.

  Dale Davies


  Paul,  I have repaired a lot of iron gearboxes and engine parts with the
 only problem being an above ground shallow well pump.  I grind all of the
 edges or cracks clear through to weld from the back side out.  Then I use a
 neutral flame on an acetylene torsh passed over the surfaces until small
 bits of exposed carbon burn off but not to heat the part.  The rods are
 NICI (nickle certanium) which were .90 apiece last time I bought a box.
 Weld a pass and then use the sharpened pointed end of a chipping hammer to
 stress relieve the entire surface.  No more than two stringer passes at a
 time and always peen the surface.  I use 80 amps reverse polarity DC  with
 1/8 inch rods
 and the appearance of the puddle while welding looks like welding
 stainless.  I weld several passes above the original surface and peen
 theese also, then grind the surface back flush and paint. Small loose tabs
 tend to pull crooked welded from one side so it is best to do a few passes
 and keep switching sides. If tabs must be one sided welded I lean the tab
 back about two degrees to counter the pulling. If there are missing pieces
 such as on an antique tractor block I use mild steel plate to fill in the
 gaps. The casting temp and weld area temperature difference needs to be
 kept to a minimum. I use room temperature and some use a heat box but
 keepin a minimum delta T is the intent to lower stress which warps or
 cracks the casting. This is a low heat weld with just a little more than
 1/2 the amps you would use for steel plate, and finally the most important
 is peen everything as you go not just the last pass.

 george grimes

 Go to muggyweld.com for the welding you want to do. Ted Carter
Ted Carter
		 	   		

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