Hi
Thanks for quick reply. I am looking at using a single injector only
as a performance booster on an old diesel motor injecting small
quantities of petrol. Was going to use TPS to vary injector output,
4 x pulse outputs off the crank.Thought that the 555 was a good
place to start playing.
Scott Pearson
That should work.
Most diesel run WOT all the time and the amount power and fuel flow
is controlled by the TPS. You'll get smoke like at a tractor pull :)
Make sure you use the CMOS version of the 555.
Paul Lamar
Scott,
re you planning to use gasoline or diesel fuel? Gasoline has a major
problem
with the high compression and WILL cause knock. I would use propane or
CNG
nstead if that is the case.
Dale Davies
Dale
Have been using 20 % petrol(high octane Approx 105) using wvo(waste veg
oil) just
seems to advance ignition on the diesel motor. Thought that electronic
injection (as
sorts) would be a bit me precise in volume and injected timing This a
booster ,not on
100% of the time. Mate,just playing around to keep the busy and learning
at the same
time. love to play with all sorts of different stuff.Any input is taken
on-board and
not to have the nose turned up at it, if you know what I mean.
Thanks In Advance
scott
You've got me confused Scott! I too use gasoline with WVO to improve
starting in the
Oz winter, but I use the lowest octane I can find to improve the Cetane
rating of the
fuel - in case you don't know Cetane rating is the inverse of Octane
rating.
As it is timed injection in a diesel it is best carefully mixed with the
WVO before
putting in the tank. Yesterday it would not start on 15% on an 8* C
morning so I am
going back to 20%. Mercedes recommend not exceding 30%.
John Evans
They probably don't want you to exceed 30% because the gasoline does not
provide sufficient lubrication to the injector system at greater
concentrations.
Mark LaPierre
That may be the case Mark, I found that info in the manual of an old 300 D
I borrowed
years ago. I understand that the pumps have had problems with the reduced
lubricity
of low sulphur diesel fuel. On the other hand the excellent lubricity of
canola
would be unlikely to be compromised by a bit of gasoline when you compare
it with 2
stroke oil at the 100:1 mix.
John Evans
A few things you might need to know about biodiesel- we run it in our boat
that holds 1150 gallons.
Biodiesel is an effective solvent- it will clean your fuel tank quite well,
and send all of this gunk into your fuel filters. Before changing over I
would recommend buying a few and keeping them in the vehicle.
Biodiesel will eat any rubber item such as o rings, fuel lines, etc. Make
sure these items are neoprene and not rubber. Some older vehicles may still
have rubber, newer likely won't.
Biodiesel is organic- and bacteria like it. If your vehicle sits idle for
more than 3 months, the bacteria will start breaking down the fuel. The
result is sludge that is difficult to remove, and a general nuisance. The
solution is to add regular diesel to the bio in increasing percentages
until it is poisoned sufficiently to keep the bacteria levels down. Also,
we use an additive in our boats called BioBor that is basically an
insecticide for diesel fuel. Inhibits the growth of the bacteria and keeps
sludge down. Not necessary if you always drive the fuel out and keep fresh
in it.
As far as cold weather operation- in the winter we use Bio70, which is 70%
Bio and 30% diesel. Helps cold starting. In summer we use 100% Bio.
Our boat has Detroit Diesel 12v 71s in it. With the biodiesel she has
almost no smoke except at startup, doesn't soot the transom like before,
and if you are running downwind the exhaust doesn't choke you.
As far as running gasoline in the fuel, I would be wary of that approach.
My Cummins Diesel truck runs injector pressures as high as 1500 psi, a Ford
truck 3000. Gasoline under the pressures of diesel injector pumps is an
explosion waiting to happen. I have split injector lines on more than one
occasion resulting in a fine mist of fuel spraying in the engine room,
especially on older engines. We all get tired and that applies to fuel
lines too!
Kevin Alderman
I think we should define our fuels, to me Biodiesel is cooking oil which
has been
esterified by the mixing of sodium- or potassiun hydroxide and methanol
to chop off
the glycerine and substitute a methane on the carbon chain, a dangerous
and messy
process. This mess then has to be washed out with water. I don't want
water in my
diesel:-(
On the other hand waste vegetable oil (WVO) is preferably canola oil, but
is often a
blend of cotton seed oil, soya bean oil and others.
Canola is a polyunsaturated oil and like linseed oil will oxodise to form
a skin -
as in paint. It does soften fuel lines and make them swell a bit.
Animal fats dissolved in the oil can be a problem, so before filtering I
discard a
lot of the dregs - they go into cattle feed:-) If I don't do this they
will change
state as the tank cools in our winter - mild. When this happens energy in
the form of
heat is needed to change them back to liquid, but if not dealt with they
can oxidise
to form a hard tencious mess.
Viscosity is another problem with WVO compared with Biodiesel, again heat
is required.
I have experienced bacteria growth in diesel fuel, but no sign of it in
WVO.
Unfortunately we don't seem to have any chance of running our rotaries as
diesels.
John Evans
My comments are related to the biofuel that I run in our boat. The supplier
starts with virgin castle with the intention of making fuel. Due to the
impurities, they do not use wvo. Before we bought 1150 gallons of it, he
and I had a talk about the good, bad and the ugly. All that he could tell
me. To date wd have run this fuel for almost 2 years, going through around
5000 gallons of it. With the precautions I mentioned before, we have no
issues and will continue to use it.
I still think there is some viability to a mixture of maybe 20% diesel in
our gasoline. I might try this before the plane gets airborne.
Kevin Alderman.
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