Paul,
            Finally got the photos requested. Not good but fair considering
I was
hanging off the top of a ladder.  Neil.

The pictures look great Neil.
You did a wonderful job. Jeff's motor plate and spacers look great.
Nice ram air box. All around good job.

Paul Lamar

Neil,
Looking good! Do you have enough clearance for the stock cowl? Can you shoot
a couple
pics showing the radiator(s)?
Looks very neat.
Regards,
Herb, Glastar/Rotary builder.

If you need more clearance under the stock cowl you can do something like
this.
This is the old Schertz beam mount but it will work with Jeff's motor plate
as well.
Aircraft engines are always twice as wide as a rotary therefore there is
always room
along side the rotary. That is why it is a good idea to put the rad on the
cool spark
plug side.


Paul Lamar

Neil,

I forwarded your photos to our local EAA chapter president who is finishing
the build
on his Glastar Sportsman 2x2. He thought your installation looked "clean and
professional" which I interpret as high praise from his perspective as a
senior P&W
engineer. He was curious to know what your all-up (fluids on board) FWF &
ramp
weights are. He also wondered whether you might have a couple of photos with
your
cowl in place. I've looked for the items I've asked about on the site
archives with
no success. If what I've asked about has already been posted, please excuse
my
inability to find them (my wife says if whatever I'm looking for doesn't
resemble a
mayonnaise jar, there is little hope of my finding it.)

Thanks,

Jack Hilditch

Jack,
        The stock cowl is way too wide at the front, but will obviously fit
if you put the Rads on the side as Paul suggests.  My original cowls had
been modified so many times trying to get my original Eggenfellner Subaru to
cool that I decided to start from scratch as I liked Pauls way of putting
the Rads under the engine which makes for a neater installation for the
motor.  In ignorance and stupidity I launched out on the "10 minute job" to
make my own cowls.  MY heat exchangers are huge.  Made by PWR and cover
approx 3.5 square feet.  Water is 2 feet by 16 inches and double pass which
puts both hoses at the rear just down from the water pump.  The oil is 8
inches by 16 inches, and beside  the water exchanger.  The both exchangers
take up approx an area 2 feet by 2 feet and the bit missing at the end of
the oil exchanger (8 inches) is where the exhaust pipe exits the
compartment. Why so large?  Well summer temps here can get over 45 degrees C
and a rotary must run cool.  I may be still oversize, but I have had a gut
full all my life of trying to drive machinery that just cannot cool.  Now
after 50  years, they have finally worked out to just put adequate heat
exchangers in things..  I believe that in a glastar the engine sits possibly
4 - 6 inches higher than an RV.  That was why I had to keep everything on
top of the motor vey flat to clear the top cowl.  The benefit of that is
that I have plenty of room for heat exchangers under the motor. The bottom
side of my Exchangers is level with the Fuse bottom.
    FWF weight I cannot give, as I did not weigh it separately.  From the
way it balanced when I slung the plane up to weigh it, it would be
definitely no more than an IO 360, and much less than the subaru 6 cylinder!
Total ramp weight is 1410 Lbs with the dash jammed full of toys and a
heavier exhaust system than usual.  (Twin pipes and mufflers end under the
back seat).
    Once again, I must thanks Paul for all his advice and information
without which I would still be in great difficulty.  Not sure what photos I
have posted in the past, so will attach what I can and as usual leave it up
to Paul to delete duplicates.  I will be tuning the motor today with the top
cowl off, so if anyone wants any particular photo, today may be the last
chance.  Neil.

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