Paul,
             Finally got the photos requested. Not good but fair considering
 I was
 hanging off the top of a ladder.  Neil.

 The pictures look great Neil.
 You did a wonderful job. Jeff's motor plate and spacers look great.
 Nice ram air box. All around good job.

 Paul Lamar

 Neil,
 Looking good! Do you have enough clearance for the stock cowl? Can
 you shoot a couple pics showing the radiator(s)? Looks very neat.
 Regards, Herb, Glastar/Rotary builder.

 If you need more clearance under the stock cowl you can do something
 like this. This is the old Schertz beam mount but it will work with
 Jeff's motor plate as well. Aircraft engines are always twice as
 wide as a rotary therefore there is always room along side the
 rotary. That is why it is a good idea to put the rad on the cool
 spark plug side.

 Paul Lamar

 Neil,

 I forwarded your photos to our local EAA chapter president who is finishing
 the build
 on his Glastar Sportsman 2x2. He thought your installation looked
 "clean and professional" which I interpret as high praise from his
 perspective as a senior P&W engineer. He was curious to know what
 your all-up (fluids on board) FWF & ramp weights are. He also
 wondered whether you might have a couple of photos with your cowl in
 place. I've looked for the items I've asked about on the site
 archives with no success. If what I've asked about has already been
 posted, please excuse my inability to find them (my wife says if
 whatever I'm looking for doesn't resemble a mayonnaise jar, there is
 little hope of my finding it.)

 Thanks,

 Jack Hilditch

 Jack,
         The stock cowl is way too wide at the front, but will
 obviously fit if you put the Rads on the side as Paul suggests.  My
 original cowls had been modified so many times trying to get my
 original Eggenfellner Subaru to cool that I decided to start from
 scratch as I liked Pauls way of putting the Rads under the engine
 which makes for a neater installation for the motor.  In ignorance
 and stupidity I launched out on the "10 minute job" to make my own
 cowls.  MY heat exchangers are huge.  Made by PWR and cover approx
 3.5 square feet.  Water is 2 feet by 16 inches and double pass which
 puts both hoses at the rear just down from the water pump.  The oil
 is 8 inches by 16 inches, and beside  the water exchanger.  The both
 exchangers take up approx an area 2 feet by 2 feet and the bit
 missing at the end of the oil exchanger (8 inches) is where the
 exhaust pipe exits the compartment. Why so large?  Well summer temps
 here can get over 45 degrees C and a rotary must run cool.  I may be
 still oversize, but I have had a gut full all my life of trying to
 drive machinery that just cannot cool.  Now after 50  years, they
 have finally worked out to just put adequate heat exchangers in
 things..  I believe that in a glastar the engine sits possibly 4 - 6
 inches higher than an RV.  That was why I had to keep everything on
 top of the motor vey flat to clear the top cowl.  The benefit of
 that is that I have plenty of room for heat exchangers under the
 motor. The bottom side of my Exchangers is level with the Fuse
 bottom.    FWF weight I cannot give, as I did not weigh it
 separately.  From the way it balanced when I slung the plane up to
 weigh it, it would be definitely no more than an IO 360, and much
 less than the subaru 6 cylinder! Total ramp weight is 1410 Lbs with
 the dash jammed full of toys and a heavier exhaust system than
 usual.  (Twin pipes and mufflers end under the back seat).    Once
 again, I must thanks Paul for all his advice and information without
 which I would still be in great difficulty.  Not sure what photos I
 have posted in the past, so will attach what I can and as usual
 leave it up to Paul to delete duplicates.  I will be tuning the
 motor today with the top cowl off, so if anyone wants any particular
 photo, today may be the last chance.  Neil.

 I notice that the engine is rubber mounted but the exhaust is solid mounted
to the underside of the fuselage. How is the noise from the exhaust vibration
coming through the pipe? How about engine torque wanting to move the exhaust?
The actual exhaust noise/sound is one thing, but the vibration of the pipe is
totally another devil to deal with. Had a muffler on an exhaust with two
pipes, one off each port fall off due to the sonics in the one pipe. Cracked
into 1/4" squares. On vehicles, the exhaust rotates as the engine torque
rotates the engine. If it touches any frame or body part it causes a racket
inside. Flying like that, will break something you do not want to break.

Dale Davies



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