Neil, after looking at your cowling, I don't think the regular Glastar unit would
work. Do you feel the same? I never built anything like it, and I can see it's
plenty of work. Im wondering how close the cowling on an RV is tto a Glastar.
Probably more trouble than it's worth.
How much do you think the MM would cost? I was thinking of getting someone around
here who would let me cut/fit the parts, and he could weld with a student(me) under
his nose. I have an old buzzbox tig, but I'm not verry good. Tubing is esp
difficult, i've heard. Jack
An engine mount could cost as much as $1000. Most of that is labor.
If you can do it your self that would be much cheaper of course.
The cooling system will fit in the stock cowl with the rad mounted on the cool side.
That is what the 3D drawings are all about. To see what fits and what does not fit.
Paul Lamar
Jack,
Cowling. The thrust line on a glastar is I believe much
higher
than an RV, as I had to keep everything as tight (low) as possible to keep the cowl
from interfering with the engine. Things like a CLR of 7 inches on the P port pipes
rather than the standard 8 inches. The oil filter and generator also had to be
mounted on the side of the motor to keep the overall height down. I have since
walked around the stock cowling and wandered if I should have just attempted to alter
that, but is very difficult to get alterations even and nothing looks worse than a
lop sided cowling.
My cowling was made to suit Jeff Doddridge's motor mount and as I have said I have a
mold. I never intended to make cowls, but I am prepared to make a cowling for you if
required, but do allow that freight from here, Australia, is very dear, especially as
cowls are bulky and freight is on volume rather than weight. Post may be cheaper,
but I would expect a freight bill of up to $500 as a guess. Just something to think
about.
MM. The actual welding and cutting I did in a half day, but that was after I had
spent considerable time in making up a jig. Again that was specifically for Jeff's
engine mount. I made the jig to ensure I had the motor offset and down thrust as
close as possible. I really cannot see any other way to do it. Grinding and cutting
the tubes was very time consuming to get as close as possible for minimum welding.
It is frightening how quickly the tube shrinks as you grind the tapers each end, and
suddenly it is too short. With that in mind you start on the longest, so that if it
suddenly "shrinks" you can use it on a shorter place. The difficulty in tube welding
is the lack of material so that any excess heat and it simply melts leaving a big
hole to fill. That is why a TIG is ideal, as heat is easily controlled which is less
distortion as well. Again as I said I also have most of the jig work still here with
too many photographs to guide you if that is how you want to go.
Any more useless information you want to know, just ask. Neil
in OZ.
Back on-line. Over 1 week without service. Had to put in a new line, new modem, new
wireless, new/used computer. My driveway is 960 feet.
I'm not fond of snow either. Thank you Neil , shipping is a bit much.
I'll wait until I understand just what I need. I'm curious about the different
cooling methods, under the engine and spark plug side.
Under seems to be sooo much larger in capacity. I'm aware of the necessity for lotsa
cooling for the rotary, and I wouldn't want to do the job 2 or 3 x's. Still need to
do more work on the fuselage and wire the wings, and.....Jack
You need my book Jack. How to Cool Your Wankel.
Paul Lamar
Jack,
Paul is right as usual, whatever you do get Paul's book on cooling, as is
the best buy available. I followed Paul's advice from the book and now even though
it is late winter (15 degrees C which is possibly
60 to 70 F) I can run my motor at full throttle stationary with the Rad, shutters
closed for 10 minutes straight and just a slight opening of the shutters drops the
temps to under 180 degrees. The oil temps track the water by around 5 - 10 degrees.
Exhaust temps are getting to 1800 degrees so it is working and keeps possibly too
cool. What a wonderful problem. Took
pics. of the rads so you can the setup which is a direct copy of Paul's
book. THe holes in the top of the left cowling are to feed the intake for the cab
heater which goes to a heat muff on the exhaust. It certainly works for on the
outlet from the heat muff it melted the crappy black tubing I had used. One hour at
full noise with the cab getting decidedly hot before the plastic melted, and the
water temps never got over 190 degrees and that was
with as I said the shutters closed. I am not the only one who thinks that
Paul;'s book is good value, for I took his book to an air show with my motor
18 months back as a static display which generated a lot of interest, and by
the end of the first day, some bastard had pinched Paul's book. Neil.
Good pictures Neal. Thanks.
Paul Lamar
Neal,
Nice pics! I hope my G'Star will look that good.
Herb
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