Neil, after looking at your cowling, I don't think the regular Glastar
unit would work. Do you feel the same? I never built anything like
it, and I can see it's plenty of work. Im wondering how close the
cowling on an RV is tto a Glastar. Probably more trouble than it's
worth.
How much do you think the MM would cost? I was thinking of getting
someone around here who would let me cut/fit the parts, and he could
weld with a student(me) under his nose. I have an old buzzbox tig,
but I'm not verry good. Tubing is esp difficult, i've heard. Jack
An engine mount could cost as much as $1000. Most of that is labor.
If you can do it your self that would be much cheaper of course.
The cooling system will fit in the stock cowl with the rad mounted
on the cool side. That is what the 3D drawings are all about. To see
what fits and what does not fit.
Paul Lamar
Jack,
Cowling. The thrust line on a glastar is I believe much
higher
than an RV, as I had to keep everything as tight (low) as possible
to keep the cowl from interfering with the engine. Things like a CLR
of 7 inches on the P port pipes rather than the standard 8 inches.
The oil filter and generator also had to be mounted on the side of
the motor to keep the overall height down. I have since walked
around the stock cowling and wandered if I should have just
attempted to alter that, but is very difficult to get alterations
even and nothing looks worse than a lop sided cowling.
My cowling was made to suit Jeff Doddridge's motor mount and as I have
said
I have a mold. I never intended to make cowls, but I am prepared to
make a
cowling for you if required, but do allow that freight from here,
Australia,
is very dear, especially as cowls are bulky and freight is on volume
rather
than weight. Post may be cheaper, but I would expect a freight bill
of up
to $500 as a guess. Just something to think about.
MM. The actual welding and cutting I did in a half day, but that
was after I had spent considerable time in making up a jig. Again
that was specifically for Jeff's engine mount. I made the jig to
ensure I had the motor offset and down thrust as close as possible.
I really cannot see any other way to do it. Grinding and cutting
the tubes was very time consuming to get as close as possible for
minimum welding. It is frightening how quickly the tube shrinks as
you grind the tapers each end, and suddenly it is too short. With
that in mind you start on the longest, so that if it suddenly
"shrinks" you can use it on a shorter place. The difficulty in tube
welding is the lack of material so that any excess heat and it
simply melts leaving a big hole to fill. That is why a TIG is ideal,
as heat is easily controlled which is less distortion as well.
Again as I said I also have most of the jig work still here with too
many photographs to guide you if that is how you want to go. Any
more useless information you want to know, just ask. Neil in OZ.
Back on-line. Over 1 week without service. Had to put in a new
line, new modem, new wireless, new/used computer. My driveway is
960 feet. I'm not fond of snow either. Thank you Neil , shipping is
a bit much. I'll wait until I understand just what I need. I'm
curious about the different cooling methods, under the engine and
spark plug side. Under seems to be sooo much larger in capacity.
I'm aware of the necessity for lotsa cooling for the rotary, and I
wouldn't want to do the job 2 or 3 x's. Still need to do more work
on the fuselage and wire the wings, and.....Jack
You need my book Jack. How to Cool Your Wankel.
Paul Lamar
Jack,
Paul is right as usual, whatever you do get Paul's book on
cooling, as is the best buy available. I followed Paul's advice
from the book and now even though it is late winter (15 degrees C
which is possibly 60 to 70 F) I can run my motor at full throttle
stationary with the Rad, shutters closed for 10 minutes straight and
just a slight opening of the shutters drops the temps to under 180
degrees. The oil temps track the water by around 5 - 10 degrees.
Exhaust temps are getting to 1800 degrees so it is working and
keeps possibly too cool. What a wonderful problem. Took pics. of
the rads so you can the setup which is a direct copy of Paul's
book. THe holes in the top of the left cowling are to feed the
intake for the cab heater which goes to a heat muff on the exhaust.
It certainly works for on the outlet from the heat muff it melted
the crappy black tubing I had used. One hour at full noise with the
cab getting decidedly hot before the plastic melted, and the water
temps never got over 190 degrees and that was with as I said the
shutters closed. I am not the only one who thinks that Paul;'s
book is good value, for I took his book to an air show with my motor
18 months back as a static display which generated a lot of interest,
and by the end of the first day, some bastard had pinched Paul's
book. Neil.
Good pictures Neal. Thanks.
Paul Lamar
Jack, We use a shipper called "Conico" to send stuff to the
Philippines. A box 30x30x30 inches is $80 and larger items are
figured by volume at the same rate. We send college text books which
we load into the boxes at the shipper with the box on a pallet and
they fork lift it into the container.. To send a rotary engine put a
piece of 3/4" plywood in the bottom of the box. These shippers are
located in all major cities. We go to Norfolk Virginia which is 60
miles.. These people are container packers usually serving shipments
to one foreign country. Our shipper accumulates a container about
every two weeks, then 5 weeks till delivery to their foreign location.
george grimes
With regard to Paul's note about being offline for a week; I could not access
my server to get this mail. Came up with a page; this site has stepped out.
Noticed at the top "suspended". I thought they missed paying the site
registration fees and would be up and running in a day or two. Wrong. Then I
got looking and trying sites on the search. Found it under another
registration. They gave no warning this was going to happen. Qualifies for the
Pain of the Year in the Rear award!!
Dale Davies
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