In my plane the largest radiator I could fit under the cowl and
not under   the engine was an MR2 radiator.  Its core size is 26 x
12.  What radiators   are the high HP p port guys using?  Primarily
I would be looking for   size,material and number of cores.  If you
used a remote fill container  with   the radiator cap, did you buy
it or make it?

   Aluminum welding isn't easy to learn and even more difficult to
have the   equipment to do it in some places, so an off the shelf
version would be   nice.  However, if you cant get one find a way to
make it.  That requires   dimensions.  Next time you are in the
hangar, take a pic of the cooling   system and send it over.  Notes
help, and a measuring tape in the picture  is   worth its weight in
gold.  KA The ideal core is out of a Dodge pickup.   Probably
overkill.  With our asymmetric motor mount and motor plate the  rad
 core will fit vertically on the plug side of the engine.  The turbo
will   also fit with the asymmetric motor mount.

  KA

   I don't recommends using the stock Cont. mount. The motor mount
is the  last   thing to be designed.  First one fits all the major
components.  Then one   builds the mount around them.  A good 3D
program like Rhino is essential.   The stock cowl shown will work
fine, No room under the engine with a nose   gear for the rad core.
Several airplanes are flying with this  arrangement.   Nothing new here.

   I still need the dims on the firewall hard points to finish
this..  A  stock   Corvette pressure can works well.
 http://tinyurl.com/d6p3s9p Paul Lamar  I   will confirm the dims of
the mounting points today after the sun comes up.   The stock Cont
mount has a few more bars than some of the other mounts,  but

   the only ones that are in the way are the ones for the
retractable nose  gear   brackets.  I am holding out hope that I
will be able to make the retracts   work at some point.  Now that I
have the radiator mock up in the cowl, the   tubes aren't in the way
much at all.

   I cant get a Dodge truck radiator in the cowling- 14 inches high
is about   the max and be able to close the hood.  The MR2 rad gives
me a few inches   either end, and room above and below tor get my
hands around it.

   KA

   All rads are aluminium now a days. Back about 5 years ago
everybody had   cooling problems before we got a handle on it.  It
takes about 600 cubic   inches of rad to cool a 200 HP rotary.  For
a 250 HP turbo it takes about   750.  That is for a 3 inch thick
rads.  Knock off 25% for a 1 inch thick   rad.

   BTW Here is a simple way of looking at cooling drag as it affects
rad   thickness.  Lets say we have a 1 square foot cooling scoop.
If the scoop   was completely blocked the drag would be full dynamic
pressure.  Dynamic   pressure at 200 MPH is 100 pounds per square
foot.  200 MPH is about 300   feet per second.

   Therefore the HP consumed is 300 x 100 or 30,000 pound foot per second.
   550
   pound foot per second is one HP so our blocked scoop is consuming
54 HP.   If   the scoop was totally open and the air went straight
through with no   restriction the drag and HP consumed would be near
zero.  Only a little   bit from skin friction. Thinner rads have
less restriction but more  frontal   area for the same volume.  The
job of the diffusers is to increase the  area   of the duct.  If you
increase the area of a duct the air velocity is  reduced   but the
volume of the air passing through is the same.  Since drag is air
 velocity squared.....By now you can see where I am going with this.

   This is why Kays & London wrote: "the use of highly compact [efficient]
   surface geometries is that the resulting core shapes are
characterized by  large flow frontal   area and short flow lengths
for the gas-flow   path".

  ------------------------------**------------------------------**-------
  Close the NACA scoop. NACA scoops don't work when feeding
restricted  ducts. The air merely bypasses the opening due to
positive pressure in the  duct.

  Ideally you want the nose scoop half way down the rad. Moving it down
  from where it is. Nose scoops are best as they see full dynamic pressure.

  Here is a pictures of the MR2 rad mock-up sitting in the cowl.

  The rad can be 4 or 5 inches higher. Every little bit helps.

  The motor mount is workable but the aluminium plate between the
pan and  the block will flex causing oil leaks. Making it thicker
will help.  The rad comes close but the mm tubes do not
significantly block the flow.

  I don't think the stock RX7 oil cooler is going to work with a turbo.

  Your on the right track with the diffuser for the rad.

  Paul Lamar

Thanks Paul.
The stock ford truck radiator is about 29 inches long and 18 inches
high. I think I can get it in there. I was trying to keep the rad
down in the lower cowl only so that I can have more room to work on
the engine with the top off without a ladder.

I have been looking for an alternative to the oil cooler, but with
the volunteer work at the school the past 2 weeks I havent had time.

I have put the turbo on a couple of different ways, and no matter
how  I mount it, I have interference with the p ports. It looks like
I will have to space it out as much as 3 inches (I have a spacer) to
make it clear the p ports enough to get intake tubes on them. I am
sure I will have to mount the throttle assembly more upstream than
at the p ports.

I have thought about the aluminum plate under the engine and built
in a solution- first the bending moment is confined to the last 1.25
inches from the edge of the engine to the mount. The aluminum sheet
is .250, 6061- T6 and should be sufficient to take the bending
moments that it will see.  The spacer under it is a composite with a
layer of plywood top and bottom- the outside is sealed with epoxy
and the interior is bare. Remember that cork gaskets swell with the
oil and this swelling causes them to seal better- I am looking for
the same effect here. The added benefit of the 1.25" spacer is
another 3.4 quarts of oil capacity.

If it doesnt work, I will change it later. I was and am still apprehensive
about the metal to metal to metal interfaces that I see some of the
builders use in this area. I would anticipate some flexing here
moreso from the gyroscopic effects than from engine torque, and with
only a bead of silicone to keep it sealed I would expect a leak at
the block/ plate/ pan junctions. Also, to alleviate some of the
torque I will likely incorporate some sort of stiffener in the area
of the turbo that will brace it down to the mount- the turbo is
heavy and needs some type of support. This support will also serve
as an anti-torque strut to keep the unit from twisting.

I will try to spend a few hours on it in the next few days- but the church
is cooking meals for about 500 families in our area and I will be helping
them out with that.

KA


Kevin,
Have you tried turning the turbo around so that the inlet end is pointing to
the front? This will drop the turbo down 3" - 4". Then the problem becomes
clearance with the engine mount plate (Jeff's), but that should be easy to
accommodate if the plate has a scallop on the bottom to clear the inlet. The
turbine housing can easily be turned to get the oil in and out ports back to
their proper orientation.
For the radiator mounting, could you mount it under the fuselage? Use a
boundary layer scoop into the diffuser. If it is mounted under the front
seats, it would be easy to route a cable to flaps or louvers to control the
air flow.

Dale Davies

You have to keep the turbo high for good oil drain back.

Paul Lamar