Paul, Jeff's plate and your design certainly looks strong enough judging
from the BD4 and what you wrote. What do you think about attaching
the nose gear to the oil pan mount plate I already have, and
supporting the rear of the engine on it, having Jeff's plate on the
front end? I have all the wiring you did for Milo on the top of the
engine, was that wiring intended to be permanent? That might get in
the way of any supporting strut supporting the engine from the top,

Alex

You might as well use the whole installation as is and plug up the holes
on the firewall and beef up the firewall for the new hard points.
The existing Tango hard points are in the right places for strength.
It will be a bit of a kludge.

It will need a new cross tube to stabilize the lower compression tubes.
The upper tubes may be too high for the Tango so they will have to be
replaced. The RV8 has a high firewall.

  Milo spent a lot of money on that and you probably bought it at a
bargain price. The cast alloy oil pan is not deep enough but you
could sell it on ebay for a couple of hundred. Some guy with an RX8
would love to have it. Then build a steel oil pan with enough
strength for the front gear. The rad will have to come out from
underneath if you use a nose gear.

The wiring is intended to be for testing but it could be made
permanent. May need a few tie wraps to stabilize it.

The rubber motor mount heat problem can be worked around with custom
rubber bushings made from sheet silicone rubber. Perry Mick made
some. You will need to make a 2.5 " OD punch to cut it into
doughnuts using a hyd press and a steel backing plate.

Paul Lamar


If you sharpen the cutting end of a tube to cut better, use some sheet Teflon
to push into. You will therefore not dull the edge as quickly. I have used the
Teflon sheet under gasket paper when cutting holes for bolts.

Dale Davies