Paul, Jeff's plate and your design certainly looks strong enough judging from the BD4 and what you wrote. What do you think about attaching the nose gear to the oil pan mount plate I already have, and supporting the rear of the engine on it, having Jeff's plate on the front end? I have all the wiring you did for Milo on the top of the engine, was that wiring intended to be permanent? That might get in the way of any supporting strut supporting the engine from the top,

Alex

You might as well use the whole installation as is and plug up the holes on the firewall and beef up the firewall for the new hard points.
The existing Tango hard points are in the right places for strength.
It will be a bit of a kludge.

It will need a new cross tube to stabilize the lower compression tubes.
The upper tubes may be too high for the Tango so they will have to be replaced. The RV8 has a high firewall.

  Milo spent a lot of money on that and you probably bought it at a bargain price. The cast alloy oil pan is not deep enough but you could sell it on ebay for a couple of hundred. Some guy with an RX8 would love to have it. Then build a steel oil pan with enough strength for the front gear. The rad will have to come out from underneath if you use a nose gear.

The wiring is intended to be for testing but it could be made permanent.
May need a few tie wraps to stabilize it.

The rubber motor mount heat problem can be worked around with custom rubber bushings made from sheet silicone rubber. Perry Mick made some.
You will need to make a 2.5 " OD punch to cut it into doughnuts using a hyd press and a steel backing plate.


Paul Lamar
--
So it's Alex with that shallow oil pan. Contact me when you want to get rid of it?
Who made it and does it fit a 13BREW FD engine (twin turbo 1992+)?
Marc Wiese

It's a Greddy Marc.

Paul Lamar

Hi Paul,
    Do you have a picture of that oil pan interior ?
        Cheers Chris in NZ

No but ask Alex to take a picture when he takes it off.

Paul Lamar