I was using Blendzall's Racing Castor premix in my rotary, guess it
was a
bad idea, it seems ALL the apex seals are
stuck solid due to gum/varnish build-up!! NO! HELP! Anyone know of
anything I might be able to squirt inside it to
dissolve that gunk and save me from a pull & rebuild?! THX!
Dan Gorsline
Try ATF for a few days.
If it is a 13B.
Then use a 1/4 inch dowel to work the seals in and out in their slots
through the exhaust ports.
If it is an RX8 you are stuck :)
Once it is running again pour some water in the intake to blow out the
carbon.
Not enough to kill it. Keep it running while doing so.
Use only 2 cycle oil premix in the future.
Paul Lamar
--
Dan, Being a model airplane addict that uses castor oil for lubricant, have
seen this castor varnish many times in my older engines. The only thing I
have ever found to clear this gunk out is more model airplane fuel. That
would be methanol, nitro methane , and castor. 10% nitro should be
sufficient. Fuel with synthetic oil will work better also to clean, and not
rust everything together.
Bob Mears
Yes, Paul is correct (as always) I too know of the water trick to
remove carbon build-up. Good to remove carbon
build-up that causes pre-ignition in reciprocating engines. Give it
a go, if it is running! shock cooling the carbon
will dislodge it and spit it out the exhaust. What do you think
about throttle body cleaner Paul, I think it could work
too and support combustion?
I have no experience with that.
Paul Lamar
Thx everyone! Keep the ideas coming!
I've tried the ATF trick hasn't worked so far (although I did NOT let
it sit for a few days...just over-night-gotta let
it sit longer I guess), tried throttle-body/carb cleaners
(over-night), foaming engine degreaser...(same). This castor
varnish seems to be pretty hard-core.. Time to do it again!
Dan G.
Do you have the exhaust manifold off?
If you can spin it fast enough it will start with leaking apex seals.
Like coasting down a steep hill in high gear. Or towing it in high
gear.
Once it is hot and running then use the water in the intake trick.
Paul Lamar
I use carb/choke cleaner to clean throttle body. But that stuff can be
too strong for some of the components in rare cases. The newer cars have
a small hole build into the throttle plate, so throttle body cleaning
may be as out dated as points and condensors.
Tony Lam
So if I can just get it spinning fast enough it'll start?! AWESOME! My bro &
I had been considering giving it a tow to freeway-ish speed for that very
same reason.... sounds like we were on the right track after all! LoL!
-There is hope!!
Dan G.
Not guaranteed but you might get lucky.
If that does not work pull the engine and I will give you $100
for it :)...... Just joking.
Pull the engine and take the exhaust manifold off.
Get a stuck seal inline with the exhaust port. Stick a small tube in
and suck out any raw gas in the bottom of the engine.
Now put on goggles, a face shield and welding gloves.
Now here comes the dangerous part. Use a propane torch to heat the apex
seal. Work it in and out on the spring with the 1/4 inch dowel. Heat will
soften the gunk. Don't get the seal too hot or it will fail the apex seal
spring. If it starts turning red remove the flame immediately if not
sooner.
Invest in a laser IR temperature gauge and check the
temp from times to time. Don't get it hotter than 500 F
A really hot heat gun might work but I doubt it.
Same idea of towing it to get it started for the heat effect.
Use WD40 to loosen the warm gunk. You might have to do this with all six seals.
You might be able to do this with a mirror without pulling the engine
but I doubt that too.
Paul Lamar
Before getting out the torch, I would try squirting some of this GM Top Engine Cleaner into the spark plug holes and
letingt it soak for a while. It is designed to loosen gunk and carbon.
Mark
Well, after a total of 4, tow-strap tows. My 7 starts on its own!! Repeated trips to 7k+ rpm kicked the gunk/gum/varnish
out of the seals!! Its awesome!! No tools needed!!
Dan G.
Make sure to mix a bit of 2 stroke oil with the gas.
Those cheap shit nylon lines Mazda used to supply the seals are known
to crack and leak. I do that with my RX8.
Use Idemitsu rotary engine oil in the "crankcase" :)
Paul Lamar
Hi!: the data I had, coming from the french site rotativementvotre, focused
on Citroen Wankel RCEs, pointed that mineral oil is better for RCEs tan
synthetic lubricating oils, as mineral do produce less ashes and gums after
being burnt, Citroën advised for their cars Total 20W50 mineral multigrade
oil, and users were satisfied with the results obtained with this oil.
There's a SAE paper on the fuel and lubricating oil requirements of Wankel
engines, but the situation seems changing depending on whether the engine is
liquid cooled or charge cooled; for the small Sachs charge cooled engines,
German users advised Shell Rotella 30, that seems not easy to find, liquid
cooled engines require a multigrade oil for better performance after start,
when the engine hasn't reached its working temperature, for me, it was a
quite recent new reading the statements of Mazda regarding not trying to
obtain high power or high rpm with their engines until the engine working
temperature has been reached, as in reciprocating engines.
I was also a surprise for me Reading in this webpage about using two-stroke
oil mixed with fuel as for moped engines in your Wankel RCEs, more info on
this would be welcome; please consider that I'm just a theorist, my only
personal Wankel experience was when a man in the Mazda repair shop allowed
me to make a turn around the block in the Rx-8 they had for tests by
potential customers, I didn't try to go to the highway as he told me tires
were not in good condition, the trip lasted less than 4 minutes, and I
didn't insert any gear more advanced that 2nd, I can tell you just that it
was a very silent, smooth engine, and delivered power from down early in the
rpm range.
Enjoy the week, best regards, salut +
Jose Gros-Aymerich
E-28033 Madrid, Spain
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