Removing the o ring block revealed sealant that had gone fairly brittle.
Crappy stuff. I suspect a little vibration
loosened something and thus the leak.
Here are some photos of the cleaned port and re seal with black RTV.
Lewis Bjork
I don't think black is the right stuff to use. Red RTV is usually 500 F.
What does it say on the container?
Also I would etch the aluminum to get a better seal.
BTW I hope you are mixing two cycle oil with the fuel and not injecting
the crap out of the "crankcase". It looks like you are doing that in one of
the pictures or is that a sensor?
2 cycle oil in the fuel does a better job as it gets everywhere
inside the engine and not just down stream from the injector hole.
2 cycle oil burns cleanly leaving no residue unlike crankcase oil.
Paul Lamar
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Paul,
FWIW, Coolant can also find its way up the threads of the 4 bolts. On
my 20B, I had to counter-sink a couple and add button-head screws with
o-rings to finally get all the small leaks stopped.
Coolant can (will) leak at the joint of the sealing plate and the
outer rotor housing surface. This proved to be a challenge to obtain
a leak-proof seal. I used Ultra grey RTV. Important to let it sit 24
hrs in order to fully cure before pressure testing else the air/water
will force its way through the soft RTV and create a leak where there
was none. Don't get in a hurry with this step.
Mark S.
Great idea. I will add that to the procedure. Jeff can do that operation when he machines the sealing blocks. You
deserve most of the credit for the success of the welded P-port having welded the first one.
Mcmaster Car has Teflon coated 10-32 screws that also will probably seal.
The RX8 p-port video on you tube is now over 80,000 hits.
Paul Lamar
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These screws come with the O-ring seal.
Paul Lamar
The Rotary Engine News Letter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site.
http://www.rotaryeng.net
You Tube
http://tinyurl.com/beqqxas
Copyright 1998-2013 All world wide rights reserved.
