Removing the o ring block revealed sealant that had gone fairly brittle.
Crappy stuff. I suspect a little vibration loosened something and thus
the leak.
Here are some photos of the cleaned port and re seal with black RTV.
Lewis Bjork
I don't think black is the right stuff to use. Red RTV is usually
500 F.
What does it say on the container?
Also I would etch the aluminum to get a better seal.
BTW I hope you are mixing two cycle oil with the fuel and not injecting
the crap out of the "crankcase". It looks like you are doing that in one
of the pictures or is that a sensor?
2 cycle oil in the fuel does a better job as it gets everywhere inside
the engine and not just down stream from the injector hole.
2 cycle oil burns cleanly leaving no residue unlike crankcase oil.
Paul Lamar
The Rotary Engine News Letter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site.
http://www.rotaryeng.net You Tube
http://tinyurl.com/beqqxas Copyright 1998-2013 All world wide rights
reserved.
Paul,
FWIW, Coolant can also find its way up the threads of the 4 bolts.
On my 20B, I had to counter-sink a couple and add button-head screws
with o-rings to finally get all the small leaks stopped.
Coolant can (will) leak at the joint of the sealing plate and the outer
rotor housing surface. This proved to be a challenge to obtain a
leak-proof seal. I used Ultra grey RTV. Important to let it sit
24
hrs in order to fully cure before pressure testing else the air/water
will force its way through the soft RTV and create a leak where there
was none. Don't get in a hurry with this step.
Mark S.
Great idea. I will add that to the procedure. Jeff can do that operation
when he machines the sealing blocks. You deserve most of the credit for
the success of the welded P-port having welded the first one.
Mcmaster Car has Teflon coated 10-32 screws that also will probably seal.
The RX8 p-port video on you tube is now over 80,000 hits.
Paul Lamar
-----------------------------------------------------
These screws come with the O-ring seal.
Paul Lamar
A tapered counter bore for the seal to sit down in helps. The bolt
head then contacts the bore at its outer diameter and does not crush the
seal. A problem with the pan head screws can be the full threads. The
coolant can then leak past the inner part of the thread. Newer Bettis
hydraulic actuators seem to have a problem with this. A better solution
is to use copper washers.
Dale Davies
Paul,
How can I purchase the tubes and sealing blocks ?
Cheers Chris in NZ
Contact
jeff.doddridge@gmail.com
Paul Lamar
Hi Paul,
Has anyone tried Araldite to glue the blocks on ? over here the
boys use it to glue in the tubes with good success.
Cheers Chris in NZ.
Araldite is epoxy.
We went through all that epoxy stuff. Epoxy does not stick to aluminum
unless it is
first etched. We had a LOT of trouble. That is why we went to the tig
welded stainless steel tube.
Much quicker. Much more reliable and much cheaper.
BTW the air it enters the rotor housing at the right angle. Namely
pointing straight in. If you point the port
down the air must make a sharp turn upward most of the time. The Mazda
factory p-ports
go straight in for a good reason.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKJ00JsnS8A
The sealing blocks, when done right don't leak. In fact they are
repairable by unscrewing them and
replacing the O ring unlike the epoxy method. If the epoxy starts
leaking you have a real mess on
your hands. That is old and obsolete technology.
Paul Lamar
The Rotary Engine News Letter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site.
http://www.rotaryeng.net
You Tube
http://tinyurl.com/beqqxas
Copyright 1998-2013 All world wide rights reserved.
