I will use a small tack weld across two splines, two or three places.  The
   welds will need to be flush so the input shaft will pass through the seal.
    That should be plenty to keep the spline plate assy from rubbing against
   the seal.

   BTW, I double-checked and my spline plate is attached with a dozen, or so,
   AN3 bolts.  I previously stated incorrectly they were AN4.

   Mark


   On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 6:39 PM, rotaryeng <rotaryeng@earthlink.netwrote:


   Paul,

   The box of parts arrived today. My first question is regarding the 6
   blocks. There are 3 short ones, and 3 longer ones. So, which half
   of the damper do the short and long blocks belong?

   As I recall, you plan to keep the splined hub from moving forward
   (away from the flexplate) by brazing the psru input shaft so as to
   limit the travel of the splined hub, correct? What about the temper
   of the shaft? I'm not very comfortable with heating the input shaft.
   Maybe 3 or 4 spot welds with the tig welder, bridging two splines
   each and allowing it to cool back down between each tack weld.

   Mark

   The short ones go with the front disk that bolts to the spline plate.
   Necessary to clear the 10 mm counter weight bolts.

   Yes brazing might be too much heat.
   It does not take much to limit spline travel. Staking it with a hammer
   and center punch might
   work.

   Paul Lamar

 Paul,

 I just tried a fit check on the dish-shaped part that bolts to the
 counter-weight.  When held up to the 13b flex plate there is a .030" +/-
 gap between the mating surfaces of the adapter and flex plate.  The
 interference is around the perimeter of the dish-shaped part.  If bolted up
 as is it would likely cause warping of the welded assembly.

 When held up to a 20b flex plate, there is a smaller gap which appears to
 be caused by the tack welds.  If welded from the inside it should work.
   So, I will weld it from the inside and then grind down the spot welds, and
 use the 20b flex plate instead of the 13b plate.  That looks like it should
 correct the problem.  I believe the 20b flex plate is the same as the
 Renesis flex plate, so others could do the same, or you could reduce the
 diameter by about 1/4".

 Mark


 Yes I noticed that. Stick a washer in there. I just got
 my new $99 six inch chuck installed with reversible jaws. Took me all
 damn day. I had to make a precise adapter. Ever try to adapt
 a chuck with only one lathe? :) The lathe you are making the
 adapter for :)

 Send me your spline plate and I can cut the offending
 portion off :) Or we can enlarge the hole in the front
 coupling to pilot on that. Probably a better idea.
 In the mean time for testing use some washers.

 Also if it is too long some material on the front
 side can be removed.

 Paul Lamar

 Paul,

 I think you misunderstood what I was trying to describe.  It is the large
 bowl-shaped part that bolts to the counterweight with 6 - 10mm bolts that
 is the problem.  It does not sit flat against the flex plate as it should.
   I could use the doubler ring that is normally used with the flex plate to
 take up the gap, but that would move everything toward the psru by .030",
 or so.   That may not be a problem.  Or I could use the 20b/Renesis flex
 plate.  That would allow the bowl-shaped piece to sit flat against the flex
 plate and there will be no change in the spacing.  Since I have a spare 20b
 flex plate, that is what I will do.

 I will need to order some reinforced silicone material from McMaster.  Any
 suggestions on type and thickness?

 Mark

I understood. Weld it on the inside and send it to me and
I will round off the outer corner in the lathe. That will maintain
the pilot on the counter weight. Don't space it out as it may not
run true.

Any of this will work.

Paul Lamar