Hello Paul I am in the process of building a wooden Supercub replica,
that will eventually run an all-aluminium turbo rotary

(200+ hp), big wheels, etc. I am at the stage now where I have to do the
control column, and I don`t want a
stick in front, I want yoke control for various reasons, the most
important
one being that I have zero
stick time. Even the plane I did my tail dragger conversion on, had a
yoke
(Texas Taildragger C150).

I know exactly how it works, but can`t seem to get the idea into metal.
Would it be a huge favour
to ask to do me a drawing of a single control arm using a yoke a la
Cessna?
So I can have a plan to follow.


This is not about rotaries (yet), but the plane will get a rotary, and
Neil
in Aus with
the Glastar Rx8 does live only 15 km. from me... Please?

Regards,


Erik in Oz.


I am at the shop now without my Rhino.
Maybe later.

Paul

Eric,
Go and look at the high wing that Paul Goad produces in Cowra.
He
has dual yokes instead of sticks.  May be just what you are looking for.
Neil.

Hi, there should be no trouble transitioning to a stick.  It is just a bit
odd to go to the additional work, complication and maintenance hassles of a
more complicated control system for a S-Cub class airplane.

Murry


Use bicycle chain to convert rotary motion to linear motion.

Paul Lamar


The aileron part I got working, it is where/how to hinge the control
coloumn for the elevators thats got me swamped. Anyway, thanks for all the
suggestions.
Erik in Oz

The simplest way is to mount the yoke on the top of a stick.

Paul Lamar


My Viking had a U shaped bar upside down. The ends were the hinge point,
and were located at floor level where the U bar would be vertical at
neutral elevator. You will either need to do a drawing and do the math, or
you can make a mock up of the system outside the plane for the next part.

Calculate or measure the actual cable throw on the elevator from max up to
max down. Now, you will have to calculate or measure how much travel the
yoke will have from the panel to your belly. This yoke travel will convert
to degrees of the U bar. Somewhere up from the hinge point will be the
place where the travel of the U bar matches the throw of the bellcrank on
the elevator. On my Viking it was about 5 inches up from the hinge.

The top of the U bar had bushings in front of each pilot where a bushed
shaft went through. Attached to this bushed shaft were sprockets similar to
bicycle chain sprokets. From here going toward the pilot was a universal
joint, then the rest of the shaft that attached to the yoke on the other
side of the panel. In the center of the yoke about 6 inches lower than the
yoke sprocket was another sprocket that kept the chain bedded in the yoke
srpocket for approximately 120 degrees.

Halfway from the yoke center to the outside of the U bar the chain changed
over to cable with turnbuckles for adjustment. As it went down the U bar,
the lower cable pulley was mounted on the bolt that was the hinge point, so
as you pulled the yoke back the ailerons didn't change.

Kevin Alderman

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