Subject: AEROMATIC PROPS.
From: rotaryeng
Date: 9/7/2013, 2:34 PM
To: AAA-rotaryeng


    I am looking at using an Aeromatic wood prop. I know a guy that makes
    these propellers and he has a lot of the original hubs to build props
    from. He tells me that the 8 bolt pattern is not used much (I think
    they were used on the Franklin engines) and he will let me come in
    and build my own prop with one of these 8-bolt hubs. Will the Ross
    copy PSRU's be built so that flange could be drilled to accommodate
    the hub?

    BTW. this guy has been experimenting with the original Aeromatic
    design and he claims to have made some improvements that I think are
    fairly significant. He claims that IF, IF the prop is adjusted
    correctly and IF the engine is turbo normalized, he can make the prop
    work exactly like a CS with the exception of no cockpit controller.
    For non turbo normalized engines he has an altitude compensating
    adjuster device that will automatically correct the propeller
    adjustment to compensate for power loss at altitude. The altitude
    compensating device has not yet been flight tested though. If all
    this is true it might be worth looking at. No hollow crankshaft, no
    prop governor, no electric controlling system. I don't know the
    weight but he claims it is about half the weight of a CS. he sells
    them installed for $5350. Not sure how this measures up to the
    electric composite propellers.

    Paul Shamlian


    Yes I can do that as in the Ross design the prop flange is a separate
    part.

    Paul Lamar



    Mr. Shamlian,

    I would be very interested in contact information for this individual
    who is improving the Aeromatic design.   Thanks.

    Gene Kahn


I know the guy. He is Kent Tarver

    Tarver Propellers, LLC
    1500 Rio Vista Dr. Hangar C-4
    Fallon, NV. 89406

    *PHONE* - (775) 423-0378

Zoltan Szakaly

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    What is an Aeromatic Propeller?

"The Aeromatic propeller is a fully variable pitch propeller that is virtually equivalent to a constant speed propeller. But it is not quite the same thing. The typical constant speed (CS) propeller for a Lyc 0-320 will weigh about 54 pounds, add to that the weight of a governor and the cockpit control, you are pushing 60#. In addition to that, the engine has to have a hollow shaft in order to feed the oil to the hub."

"The Aeromatic prop needs no governor, cockpit control nor a hollow crankshaft. It is entirely controlled by dynamic forces, centrifugal forces, air loads etc. The typical weight of the Aeromatic is about 34#. That weight varies somewhat depending on which configuration of the propeller you have. It will allow your engine to develop 100% horse power for takeoff, climb and cruise. Typically when you apply full throttle for takeoff you engine will rev up to about 50 rpm less than red line. After you have reached flying and or climb speed your engine will be turning red line rpm. After you reach cruise altitude and level off and gain speed, the propeller will increase pitch as you gain airspeed. Consequently you are now in cruise mode with more pitch much like a constant speed prop. This is not a two speed prop, it modulates itself based on the speed of the airplane and other dynamic forces. And it is not going to cost as much as a constant speed prop. These propellers were certified on most of the production airplanes during the big airplane boom right after WW II. Pipers, Stinsons, Ercoups, T-crafts, Bellancas, Swifts, Aeroncas, Cessnas, Meyers, Monocoupes, Fairchilds, Grumman Widgeon, Johnson Rocket, Ryan Navions and more plus some foreign airplanes."

These props will be especially useful on many home built airplanes in the range of 40 HP or less up through some 260 HP engines. There are two basic designs, one for flange shaft engines and one for 20 spline shaft engines. It is a potential propeller for some 30,000 C-172 airplanes. After reading a pilot report on Van's RV-9 with a Lycoming O-235, where the test pilot almost begged for a constant speed prop, it occurs to me that the Aeromatic would be an ideal propeller for that airplane/engine combination.

OPERATION IN FLIGHT.

   1. The stability of the Aeromatic propeller is obtained by balancing the pitch decreasing effect of the aerodynamic force with the pitch increasing effect of the net centrifugal force acting on the masses of the blade and counterweight.
   2. At take-off, the pitch decreasing forces are greatest and will, therefore, move the blade forward to low pitch to permit the engine to develop full take-off power.
   3. During the climb, maximum power is made available due to the fact that the blade pitch increases as the velocity of the airplane increases.
   4. By maintaining given cruising rpm, constant horsepower of the engine is available at altitude up to cruise critical (open throttle) altitude.

INSTALLATION.
The Aeromatic propeller is a self-contained unit requiring no controls from the propeller to the cockpit. The propeller is mounted on the engine crankshaft in the conventional fashion using standard attaching parts for standard mountings.

THE AEROMATIC IS ELIGIBLE FOR USE ON THE FOLLOWING AIRPLANES

Aeronca 7ac, 11ac, 11cc, s7ac, s11ac ---- Bellanca 14-13, 14-19 ---- Cessna 120/140, 170 ---- Commonwealth 185 ---- Ercoupe 415C, CD, E, g ---- Goodyear GA-2, -2B

Jamieson J-1 ---- Meyers MAC-125C ---- Monocoupe 90AF-100 ---- Piper J-3C, J-5C, PA-11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 19, 20, 22 ---- Swift GC-1A, 1B ---- Stinson 108, -1, -2, -3

Temco TE-1A ---- Aero Design L-3805 ---- Cessna Airmaster 145, 165 ---- Fairchild 24W, 24R ---- Grumman G-44, A ---- Johnson 185 ---- Monocoupe CW ---- Navion 185, 205, 260

Stinson L-5 ---- Aeronautica Macchi MB-308, 320 ---- Auster Autrcrat J5 ---- Auster MK V ---- Desford Trainer ---- Fokker F-25, S-11 ---- Karhu 48 ---- L'Aronautique S-90

Lark KZ-VII ---- Nord 1200 ---- Piaggio P-136 ---- Pilatus P-4 ---- SAAB 91 ---- Iberavia I-11 ----  Culver LCA, LFA  and others.

Comments

TARVER PROPELLERS, LLC owns the rights, engineering, tooling and Type Certificates for the above propeller and propeller blades. We are located on the Fallon Municipal Airport (FLX). You are welcome to stop by for a visit. Our facility is located on the NW side of the runway just a few yards from the crop duster Frey Sprey.

If you want to look up the TC's, here they are: For Aeromatic, TC 820 and 833."

Unfortunetely there was one blade failure in the past, almost certain caused by a prop strike that lead the FAA to issue a SAIB regarding Aeromatic propellers. Initially issued in 2001, the final wording can be found here NE-01-23R1.pdf
For those that can't load that file , read throught the SAIB here.

And finally a message from Kent to his fellow pilots. Why sugar makes you not only fat but also sick.
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Frequently asked questions
How do you set up an Aeromatic prop?
This answer explains what you would typically do assuming your prop has been set up for your specific airplane/engine combination.

Technicalities: The Aeromatic F200 has 4 angles to be set. These angles vary across the spectrum of airplanes.
These angles are; Phase angle, Counterweight arm angle, Low pitch angle and High pitch angle.
The high pitch angle is fixed and can't be changed because it is a function of design. These angles are set at the factory. In the field the installer may or may not have to change the low pitch angle.
There is another adjustment that may or may not need to be done by the installer in the field. That is the amount of counterweight needed. Theoretically everything should be perfect!
In other words, all of these angles and the amount of counterweights are set at the factory for KNOWN airplane applications. The history of the Aeromatic propeller shows that most of the time the factory settings are correct and the owner in the field needs only to make checks to verify the settings are correct.

The Aeromatic is designed so that at cruise the blade angle is at or close to the phase angle, in static full power it is at the low pitch angle, in a dive it will move toward the high pitch angle. These props have on average, about 18 to 20 degrees of blade angle change. However only about 4 to 7 degrees are used for all flight conditions. The extra high pitch angle is there to prevent over revving in a dive.

Note: I strongly recommend that you use a calibrated tachometer. Mechanical tachometers are notorious for being off calibration. Believe me, 200 rpm error is not at all uncommon. Also your propeller most likely will not perform correctly unless your tachometer is correct. Furthermore you can easily put your propeller into a dangerous vibration mode with a faulty tachometer. Calibrate your tach or buy that little hand held battery operated tachometer to do your rpm testing. If you send your propeller back to me with damage I guarantee you that I can tell if you have damaged it due to vibration.

THE AEROMATIC F200 (for flange shaft engines up to 180 hp) A. Static full throttle regulation procedure. Assume a C-125* engine on a Swift with red line at 2500 RPM.

1. Remove all counterweights, bolts and nuts from the counterweight arms. Do not remove the counterweight arm clamp bolts.
Check static full throttle RPM. If it is not 2500, correction can be made by use of low pitch stop adjusting shims located under the synchronizer cover plate.
Remove the six screws and remove the cover plate. See note 1 below.
One shim of .016" will change RPM by about 50. Removing a shim will decrease RPM adding a shim will increase RPM. Do not add or remove more than one shim at a time.
If you can't get the right RPM by removing or adding a complete shim you can make finer adjustments by peeling the shims. See note2 below.
After reinstalling the counterweights in their original position you will see a slight decrease in full throttle static RPM. This is normal, DO NOT make any more adjustments on static RPM.

Note 1. You may loose some oil by removing the stop bolts. Catch the oil in a container and replace it after you finish with the static rpm adjustments. Doing the ground runs with less than full oil will not hurt the propeller.

Note 2. The shims are peel shims. The shim is made up of .002" laminations. Therefore you can make finer adjustments to RPM.

B. Flight RPM Correction and Altitude Adjustment for Original Regulation.

1. With the counterweights install and secured properly make a full throttle level flight as close to your airport altitude as safely possible. Engine speed at full throttle level flight should be 2500 RPM.

2. If you find that the RPM is 2600, add one -2 counterweight to each side. This will reduce the RPM by close to 100. A -1 counterweight will reduce RPM by close to 50. If your RPM is 2400 you must remove one -2 counterweight from each side. All flight adjustments are done by adding or removing counterweights. You do not readjust your static RPM.

3. Aeromatic propellers will decrease full throttle RPM by about 20 for each 1000' increase in altitude. If your home base is at 3000' you would adjust your full throttle level flight RPM to be 2440. This will give you the best all around performance.

Note 1: If you have your propeller set up for home airport of say 3000 or 4000' MSL and you decide to fly and land at an airport at sea level you should be careful on takeoff from that field that you do not over speed your engine. If you move your home base to a sea level airport after having adjusted RPM for a higher airport you should re-adjust RPM by adding or removing counterweights. The late Art Scholl, a renowned aerobatic pilot, used an Aeromatic prop on his 200 hp Ranger powered Chipmunk. I have heard that he would carry a small kit of extra counterweights so he could make adjustments for the altitude at which he was performing.

* An Aeromatic propeller that has been factory set up for a Swift with C-125 does not use the same angle settings as used on a PA-20 with a C-125. So, you can not just take a prop from a Swift and bolt it on a PA-20 just because it uses the same engine. The difference in the speed of the airplanes demands different angle settings.

THE AEROMATIC MODEL 220 (for spline shaft engines up to 260 hp perhaps more in experimental airplanes)

The setup and adjustment procedure for the model 220 is the same for the model F200. The only difference is in the way, mechanically, the pitch stops are designed. The 220 uses four pitch stop bolts, two for high pitch and two for low pitch. Each blade has it's own high pitch and low pitch stop bolt. There are peel shims under the head of each stop bolt. If you have to make static rpm adjustments follow these instructions.

1. Remove the counterweights, bolts, washers and cotter pins. DO NOT REMOVE THE COUNTERWEIGHT ARM CLAMP BOLT. Do a static full power run. It should be at red line rpm. If it is too high you remove shims under the low pitch stop bolt heads. (These bolts are marked 1L and 2L, the other two bolts are marked 1H and 2H.) You must do the same to the both blades. If the rpm is to low you add shims. After you get the static full power rpm correct, secure the bolts with safety wire and be sure that the seal is good. Permatex #2.

CAUTION: These stop bolts carry virtually no load. They merely provide a stop for the blade pitch. Even though they are 3/8" bolts do not torque them to the 3/8" torque specification. Just make sure they are tight enough to provide a good seal.

Note: 1. You may loose some oil by removing the stop bolts. Catch the oil in a container and replace it after you finish with the static rpm adjustments. Doing the ground runs with less than full oil will not hurt the propeller.

Note: 2. As on the F200 propeller you will not be adjusting the high pitch angle. Your propeller likely will never go to the high pitch stop position.

2. From here you will use the same procedure to adjust flight rpm as detailed above for the F200 propeller.


Spitfire and wooden props?



The early Spitfires and Hurricanes were delivered with adjustable wooden props. Here is one pictured in comparison to an Aeromatic blade. As a matter of fact the lag screws that holds the metal ferule on the wood is the same design in both the Spitfire and the Aeromatic. So, the design is a sound one.



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