Hi Paul, Do you have any more info on Tracy's box, like the shaft and
internals, I can't figure out where the thrust goes etc. The box is very
chunky, I would say overkill somewhat. Also I can't see any oil supply,
in or out. You wouldn't have to saw off the flange, I would do my box
and then remove it from the pattern before casting others. From the side
view it looks like the prop shaft is one piece, is this right ? Also, is
the box intended to be bolted up to a plate or a bell housing. Chris.


Tracy used a cut down GM pick up truck rear axle and ball  bearing.
The bearing was retained by a pressed on collar with  several tons of force.
Tracy fed the box with oil from the engine. So too the Ross but the Ross
had all needle bearing so it required less oil.

Very heavy at 9 pounds, I would not do it that way.

I would use a hollow shaft like the  Ross with a separate prop flange.
No forging required. The flange would be retained by
special set screws called  "Extended Point" . A relatively new idea
and much stronger  than pins that go all the way trough the walls of the
shaft (which is what Ross used for years) or splines and much less cost.
Easy to machine with a rotary table.

About a 2 inch OD steel tube with a .190 wall is about right.
Just like the Ross box. That is about the largest needle bearing you can
buy.

Use about eight or ten of these .25 inch screws and they are almost as
strong
as a one piece shaft and flange. Here are some pictures.

Do you use a dwg program Chris? If not I suggest getting a Rhino.
It will save you money in the long run.

Paul Lamar



Chris,
           I know of a complete RWS reduction drive sitting here in Oz
that is not being used at the moment.  Was to go into a tailwind, but the
bloke is busy on other things.  He is a very nice bloke who may just send it
to you to look at if you pay all the  costs over the ditch.  A wild guess is
$70 each way.    Neil.

What ratio?
Wow that is cheap at any ratio :)
I'll take it if no one down there is interested.

Paul Lamar

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