To Group, I am having issue’s with  the starter wiring. I am using an
   after  market ignition switch from the auto parts store. It has four
   terminals on it. They are marked as follows; Batt., Acc. , Ign., Str.
   There were no instructions in the package. I also have an amp meter
   that ties into the ignition switch. I have power from the buss to the
   Batt. terminal, and I have another powered wire from one side of the
   amp meter. This second wire is as per the amp meter instruction, only
   it does not say which terminal to attach it to; so I have put it on
   the ignition terminal. The third wire involved in the switch goes
   from the terminal marked Str. to the starter solenoid.

   Now the problem; when I turn the ignition switch to start, the engine
   will turn over. This occurs regardless of whether the primary buss’s
   switch is on or off. I know that the wire from the amp meter is hot,
   so I probably have it connected to the wrong terminal; only which one
   does it go to. Any suggestions. Frank


   Use an ohm meter to check out the key switch and see what terminal
   becomes hot when you turn the key to start.  Now connect that
   terminal with 16 gage stranded wire to the starter contacter. That is
   the small cylindrical device on the top of the starter. The contacter
   is just a heavy duty relay.


   The key switch is connected to any source of 12 volts.

   Al least one terminal connects to all others from time to time
   depending on the position of the key. That is the common terminal and
   that is what is connected to the 12 volt supply.

   A push button switch on the instrument panel will work as well.


   Paul Lamar


   Let's amend that test to using a meter set for Volts not for Ohms.
   Robert LeClercq

   --
   You could check out the " Top Ten Wiring Mistakes" PDF on the Vertical
   Power website for diagrams, explanations and suggestions.

   http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Top_10_Wiring_Mistakes.pdf <http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Top_10_Wiring_Mistakes.pdf>

   Pretty clear instructions and then some. Good luck.

   Jack Hilditch


    Great link, Thanks for that.
   C. Smith

Another issue that comes up with electronic devices that was not a problem with electrical devices is that
when a coil is de-energized, it acts like an ignition coil. This creates a much higher voltage in the 12v or 24v
circuit. This higher voltage can then ruin sensitive electronic components. This is true for relays like used
autos for the horn or head lights. The solution is a clamping diode across the coil that allows the voltage to be
dissipated as shown in the vertical power document. There are relays available that have the clamping
diode built in. If you install driving lights and use a relay on a vehicle with EFI you need a clamping diode as
omitting one will eventually allow the computer board to be fried.

Dale Davies

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