Last night in my sleep I too came up with what I thought was a
brilliant invention.... Patent pending.
Having realized a couple of weeks ago that my OA gas-welding failed
to meet my stringent QC standards, a friend suggested I invest in a
TIG welder. After viewing tons of Youtube videos online
demonstrating the ease of TIG welding I bit-the-bullet and ordered a
machine. The TIG welder arrived a couple of days ago, but it is so
far not what I was expecting.
My problem(s) are that I cannot quite see the puddle; from behind my
face-mask there appears to be very little difference between an
optimum puddle on 4130 tubing and a big hole; I have not yet figured
out how to keep track of where the far end of the filler-rod is
located when I'm hiding behind inside a helmet, etc ...
All my problems appear to be related to seeing what is going on;
things don't appear at all like they do on Youtube.
So my brilliant invention of the wee hours of this morning was to
adapt a video camera to serve as my real-time video camera. Using
digital filtering I could using a camera to monitor my welding
environment. The digital filtering software could use some sort of
non-linear filtering algorithm to show the work area in somewhat
normal illumination, but also display the TIG torch and associated
arc/puddle in vivid detail. It could be software adjusted to meet the
exact melting temperatures of whatever alloy I was using.
This morning I had the wind taken out of my sails ...
http://visiblewelding.com/
http://www.visiblewelding.com/Videos/Alum.TIG.closeup.avi
RBerglund
Not to worry Robin. The key is getting the right face shield
transparency (darkness).
The other thing you can do is increase the ambient light on the work
with a 200 watt spot light. This allows you to see more of the work
before you strike a spark and reduces the contrast after you strike a
spark believe or not.
Also get yourself some magnifying reading glasses and get your face
closer to the weld.
Hang in there it is worth it.
Paul Lamar
What failed on QC with OA welding? I've always recommended OA welding,
once that was accomplished then move onto TIG.
I did have issues OA Welding Aluminum. Once I realized I needed help,
went off and spent four days with Kent White (TM Technologies) in
one of
his workshops. Within a couple of hours I was going some nice flange
weld with 0.050" 3032. Once I had that down, butt weld were no
problems. Biggest item... his wonderful goggles (I own a pair) and
putting in some +2 diopters. I do not need reading glasses, but for
fine detail that did it. Oh, I already had the MECO torch for OA
welding. My victor is too large and bulking for 0.035" 4140 fuselage
tubing. Meco with light weight hoses are recommended.
Personally I like OA welding. Once I get over 0.125" thick, I'll
generally go with TIG. Plus, go outside to weld up a Exhaust manifold
with a nice breeze, OA rules.
Tom W
When welding cast iron or 4130 still air is the key. No drafts and no
fans. Once the weld is complete drape the piece to keep out drafts or
drop it in a Lime box until cold. A dose of cold air on a new 4130 weld
can manufacture a disaster.
The material beside the weld must stretch a bit as the weld cools and
contracts. You can reheat the entire weld area to dull red after welding
(with the pieces still clamped down), to prevent cracking. Then drape
the weld area. You can also fill the inside of 4130 tubes with Argon
before welding. I preheat TIG weld areas before I start. I gas weld roll
bars in 4130 because gas welding is slow and the junctions stay hot for
long periods after welding. Never blow air on a weld, and never cool
things down with a wet rag.
Lynn E. Hanover
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