It is good that you brought that up.
No easy solution so keep the stock dis for now
and use that for a tach signal
One narrow pulse per rev,
I'll think about another way.
Paul
On 05/18/2014 02:07 PM,
Sinbad791@aol.com wrote:
The big nut sticks out about 0.6 to 0.8 inches.
Also be thinking of how the tach can be hooked up.
Dave
In a message dated 5/16/2014 11:19:06 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rotaryeng@earthlink.net writes:
this is what yours will look like.
P
No the hall effect pick ups are now mounted to the part that bolts
to the
pulley. There is a ball bearing in there that allows the pickups
to be stationary while the part holding the magnets rotates.
Yours will look slightly different but will function the same way.
BTW how far does that big nut stick out from the face of the pulley.
My guess is about and inch.
Paul
On 05/16/2014 06:32 AM, Sinbad791@aol.com wrote:
> Paul,
> Now that the solution to the trigger wheel seems to be in hand; I'm
> still concerned about mounting the pick-up sensors. If the
tolerances
> must be tight, where are you planning to mount them? The line
drawing
> you sent a few days ago; seemed to show them mounted to the car. It
> would seem to me, that with close tolerance, the trigger wheel could
> crash if there were movement between the engine and the car.
> To improve our chances of a successful demonstration when you get
> here, I would like to help with any preperation I can, before
you arrive.
> I have no lathe nor machine tools for fabrication; nor any equipment
> for exotic metal welding.
> Dave
> In a message dated 5/15/2014 2:39:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rotaryeng@earthlink.net writes:
>
> wow symmetrical
>
> I guess there is no need for unsymmetrical as TDC is marked
on the
> pulley.
>
> Paul
>
>
> I found a six bolt hub/flange on my RX8 P-port engine I was
going
> to put
> in my RV4. That is a rare small diameter racing pulley from
Mazda
> Comp and
> I have another on order for $140 :( I don't want to take it
off the
> p-port engine.
>
> I don't think the 5 mm bolts are symmetrical so I will put
it on my
> rotary table
> and measure the angles when I get it next week.
>
> You are right about the 5 mm bolts.
>
> Most racers use the comparable racing pulley from Racing Beat.
>
> (Pictured.)
>
> That has the four bolt pattern.
>
> I will need to offer that trigger wheel to the racers that
have the
> Mazda/Comp
> hub. Otherwise I will standardize on the 4 bolt
unsymmetrical hub.
>
>
> Paul
>
> On 05/15/2014 07:09 AM, Sinbad791@aol.com wrote:
> > Bolt circle remeasured at 2.275" and od is good at 2.7".
There is a
> > slight radius in the corner of the base to flange at the 2.7"
> > distance, so put a slight radius on the O.D. Maybe on both
sides; so
> > that it is reverseable. Don"t know if it will ever need to be
> > reversed, but you can touch it with a file while on lathe. My
> address
> > is 1709 sw 12 ct. fort lauderdale, florida 33312 However,
I will be
> > gone this weekend, racing at Palm beach International
Raceway Will
> > return Sunday Evening. Dave In a message dated 5/15/2014
9:28:51
> A.M.
> > Eastern Daylight Time, rotaryeng@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> > what is your mail address AGAIN? I am shipping you a gadget to
> try pp
> > PRIORITY MAIL
> >
> > six equally spaced 5 mm bolts on a 2.3 inch bolt circle
> >
> > OD is 2.70"
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > That was horrible :)
> >
> > There is a free program that comes with Windose called MS
Paint or
> > just Paint. You can load a photo and mark it up and then
save it
> > among other things.
> >
> > Press the windose start button (See the start button
attached jpg)
> > select "all programs" select "accessories" select "Paint"
(See the
> > Paint-logo attached jpg.)
> >
> > Press "Home" and the paint menu will come.
> >
> > Play around with it as it is very useful. One of the
features I use
> > all the time is print formating. It is excellent for this
purpose.
> >
> > It has a very useful screen capture feature. Press PrtSc
key among
> > the functions keys and then load paint. Select "paste" and the
> screen
> > you captured magical appears loaded into paint. Now you
can mark it
> > up or just save it as a jpg.
> >
> > well worth learning.
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > On 05/14/2014 04:57 PM, Sinbad791@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> You probably have a virus
> > get rid of the windows and install Linux
> >
> > It is easy and easy to learn
> >
> > use firefox and thunderbird
> >
> > free and free upgrades
> >
> > no viruses in 16 years of the news letter and I get email
from all
> > over the world. Sometimes as many as 100 email messages a day
> >
> > I'll show you mine when I get there
> >
> > P
> >
> > On 05/14/2014 10:54 PM, Sinbad791@aol.com wrote: Paul,
About 1/3 of
> > the time I download one of your attachments, my computer locks
> up and
> > I have to restart it and lose the attachment. Now, I
almost always
> > mark "keep as new" so I can try to retreive it after
rebooting. I
> > marked up a picture with the dimentions that you wanted,
but lost it
> > somewhere in my computer, when I scanned it. But I think my
> > description is plain enough for you to understand. I also have
> > started sending a copy of my emails to myself to be sure
the correct
> > attachment was sent. Dave In a message dated 5/14/2014
4:30:44 P.M.
> > Eastern Daylight Time, Sinbad791@aol.com writes:
> >
> > Paul, I'll use my meager computer skills to try to return
a marked
> > up copy of pulley. Supplied by pettit racing )formerly
Sylvain)
> > Distance number 1 is inside flange measure. You may have
called it
> > bore? 2.746" Distance number 2 is bolt circle. I
already sent
> > that Distance number 3 is opening for eccentric bolt. 1.806"
> Distance
> > number 4 is overall diameter of pulley flange. 3.210 to 3.218"
> > Distance number 5 is flange thickness. 0.232" The bolt is for
> sure a
> > 5 mm x 0.8 In a message dated 5/14/2014 12:44:44 P.M. Eastern
> > Daylight Time, rotaryeng@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> > That a pain in the ass :)
> >
> >
> >
> > Buy a screw that fits and mail it to me so I can be sure
to have the
> > right stuff. 5 mm seems small.
> >
> > we will use metric threaded rod and nuts if possible
> >
> > Where did that odd ball flange come from? :)
> >
> > BTW on most Mazda front flanges the holes are NOT equally
spaced.
> > Mazda did that for clocking reasons. That is why you need
the Lexan
> > or a paper pattern. Very early engines had equally spaced
holes.
> Back
> > in the late 70's or so. The stock flange uses 6 mm
> >
> > Are you sure they are equally spaced?
> >
> > what is the thread pitch? I hope it is .8
> >
> > I need the diameter of the pilot bore.
> >
> > see the attached jpg
> >
> > The bolt holes can be over size.
> >
> > Do you have a lathe?
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> > On 05/14/2014 03:31 PM, Sinbad791@aol.com wrote: Paul, The
last
> email
> > I sent you should cover necessary dimensions. I measured
inside to
> > inside of bolt circle holes and added to outside to
outside distance
> > and divided by 2. Should be pretty accurate bolt circle. I
took what
> > turned out to be a 5 mm bolt to the fastener store and
used their
> > display to determine the size. While I was there, I
checked to see
> > what length 5 mm bolts they had for sale. (10,20,30 and 50 mm)
> Before
> > buying bolts, will need to know thickness of timing piece
for thru
> > bolting. The bolt holes on pulley do not extend thru, so
> determining
> > exact length will be important to insure that they tighten
without
> > bottoming and don't require too many washers to take up slack.
> > Attached pictures show how difficult it is to get pictures
down in
> > front of eccentric with car on trailer. Besides being a
pain to take
> > car off trailer, I try to minimize it running it to be kind to
> > neighbors. If you need more info, let me kno or call me.
Dave In a
> > message dated 5/14/2014 12:46:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > rotaryeng@earthlink.net writes: Cancel all that below. the
pulley is
> > integral to the front flange. I just saw your pictures.
That is an
> > odd ball flange. Measure the ID of the pilot OD. I will
cut some
> > transparent lexan that will just fit the ID with a hole to
clear the
> > big bolt and I will send it to you. Mark the position of
the holes
> > with a right angle scribe as best you can. You can also
try the
> > pencil and paper trick. Don't remove the big bolt!! Buy
some metric
> > bolts and find out what fits. Paul That is odd ball. Most
are 4
> > bolts. Don't remove the big center bolt. The thrust
bearings could
> > dislodge. Unbolt the pulley and mark TDC or what ever
timing mark
> > you are using. Take some pictures. Measure the pilot hole
diameter
> > with dial calibers from harbor freight. I will machine a
test slug
> > that will fit the pilot hole and send it to you along with
a 5 mm
> > transfer punch. Use the transfer punch to mark the 5 mm
holes. Drill
> > one hole in the test slug which will accurately hold it in
place
> > while you transfer punch the 5 mm hole positions. Most
are NOT
> > equally spaced. You can send it back to me and I will make an
> > adapter. And bring it with me. Paul
> >
> >
> > On 05/13/2014 04:24 PM, Sinbad791@aol.com wrote: Paul, the 6
> threaded
> > holes in eccentric pulley are mm 5x 0.8 As best as I could
measure,
> > the bolt circle is 2.295" The depth of the recessed
surface is about
> > 3/16: The diameter of the recess in pulley is 2.75" Making
a one off
> > for this car from aluminum should not be too big of a deal.
> > Hopefully, all other users of the new ignition will be
using stock
> > Mazda front pulleys and not custom, small diameter pulleys
to slow
> > the alternator and water pump. Dave In a message dated
5/13/2014
> > 9:57:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rotaryeng@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> > OK Dave
> >
> > Stick a cell phone camera down in there and take a picture
of the
> > front of the pulley.
> >
> > If you have a spare send it to me and I will build an adapter.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: PRIVAte
E-shaft
> > sensor multi-spark More Date: Tue, 13 May 2014
09:44:06 -0400
> > (EDT) From: Sinbad791@aol.com To: rotaryeng@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul, My e-shaft pulley is not like the one you are
designing for
> > your trigger wheel. I"m off to the dyno now and will write
a detail
> > of the problem when I get back this afternoon Dave In a
message
> dated
> > 5/12/2014 9:55:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rotaryeng@earthlink.net
> > writes:
> >
> > Yep coils are potted in the box.
> >
> > The trigger wheel is 4 inches in dia. It will look
something like
> > this.
> >
> >
> > As far as the plate bolts are concerned I am open to
suggestions.
> > Shock tower?
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > From the pictures; I'm getting that your ignition includes the
> > coils?
> >
> > A rotating piece directly on the front of the eccentric shaft
> > pulley, cannot exceed about 4.5 inches diameter without
interfering
> > with the oversize waterpump pulley above it. The 4 inch
plate will
> > be a close fit also if it is centered across the eccentric
shaft
> > bolt
> >
> > I'm guessing that the rotating piece pierces the 4x12
plate with a
> > relatively small diameter shaft. As it extends from the
front of
> > engine. the clearance gets greater because of the taper on the
> > waterpump pulley.
> >
> > I'm guessing the plate will somehow fasten to the threaded
holes on
> > the driver's side of the engine?
> >
> >
> > Dave In a message dated 5/12/2014 3:38:06 P.M. Eastern
Daylight
> > Time, rotaryeng@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> > all four systems will be mounted on a 3/16th aluminum plate 12
> inches
> > long by 4 inches wide which I will send you.
> >
> > The coil wires are ten inches long.
> >
> > I'll bring the trigger assem and the systems in my luggage.
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>