Here it is Mike Collier as promised.

The dimensions are critical to stuff everything into the rubber bushing bracket.

I like the socket head 1/2 bolt as it is easy to use and an Allen wrench will hold it when tightening the nut on top.

Things must be done in order. The 1/2 inch bolt goes first.
Then the upper link and rod end. When the engine is in proper position for thrust line then trim the lower square tube length and drill it for the 1/4 inch hole.

Install the 5/16 bolt before installing the lower square tube. Drill a large hole in the front of the bracket so a modified  Allen head 5/16 wrench  can be used to hold it.
The dwg shows a  5/16 hex head bolt. Use an Allen here as well.

When everything is installed then drill the rear 1/4 inch bolt hole through the bracket walls and the square tube.

Install the 1/4 inch bolt and tighten.

The essential function of the rear 1/4 inch bolt is the keep the rubber bushing bracket vertical.


It is important to use AN bolts of the correct length. One does not
wanted bolt threads bearing on sheet metal.

Paul Lamar

Thanks Paul, I already ordered and received the Rod Ends...and I had the
Barry mounts.   I'll need to order the 5/16 Allen head bolts. Any update
on the Inner cooler modification?  No real hurry just checking on it.

Mike C

I am thinking a 5/16 th nut plate inside the bracket is the way to go.
Make sure you get a drill head bolt.

I'll get around to that but right now things are getting crazy with ignition
systems. I made the mistake of showing it to some of my hot rod friends :)
They want it bad :) That is a huge market.

Paul Lamar



Hey Paul, I'm still sanding on the bottom of the plane but I was looking
at the Motor mount set up picture on your web site (see attached) and it
looks like there is supposed to be a side brace on the bottom to keep it
all from swaying?  Is that not needed?

Mike C


Yes it is needed but your rubber bushings are mounted too
high to do it that way. They would pass through the oil pan.
We mounted them high so the fore and aft tubes would clear the
turbo exhaust manifold.

You must go outboard with two (if possible, one will work)
1/2 inch 4130 tube links to the back of the spar off the bottom of the
steel rubber bushing holders. The one on the side of the turbo
must clear the turbo of course. Use 5/16 rod ends. These links
will be in tension if two are used. If carefully positioned
up and down on the spare they will remain in the faring.

Use .062 4130 steel brackets epoxied to the back of the spare with
long 3/16 ss pop rivets holding them on until the epoxy
cures. Epoxy is good for 3000 pounds per square in shear.
If the bracket is one inch high and two inches wide that
is 6000 pounds shear load not counting the four 3/16 SS pop rivets.
A factor of safety of at least 6.

Don't use aluminum brackets as epoxy will not adhere to the aluminum
unless the aluminum is first prepped with a West Marine prepping
kit.

How thick is the spar shear web or how many layers of glass
cloth?

Paul Lamar

Thanks Paul,  I'll have to get back to you on the thickness of the Shear
web in that area.  I don’t remember and need to look at the plans.

Mike C

When you figure out the exact lengths you need drop ship the
1/2 inch .049 wall 4130 tubing to me and I will weld on the the 5/16th rod
end fittings.

Paul Lamar