Here it is Mike Collier as promised.
The dimensions are critical to stuff everything into the rubber
bushing bracket.
I like the socket head 1/2 bolt as it is easy to use and an Allen
wrench will hold it when tightening the nut on top.
Things must be done in order. The 1/2 inch bolt goes first. Then the
upper link and rod end. When the engine is in proper position for
thrust line then trim the lower square tube length and drill it for
the 1/4 inch hole.
Install the 5/16 bolt before installing the lower square tube. Drill
a large hole in the front of the bracket so a modified Allen head
5/16 wrench can be used to hold it. The dwg shows a 5/16 hex head
bolt. Use an Allen here as well.
When everything is installed then drill the rear 1/4 inch bolt hole
through the bracket walls and the square tube.
Install the 1/4 inch bolt and tighten.
The essential function of the rear 1/4 inch bolt is the keep the
rubber bushing bracket vertical.
It is important to use AN bolts of the correct length. One does not
wanted bolt threads bearing on sheet metal.
Paul Lamar
Thanks Paul, I already ordered and received the Rod Ends...and I had
the Barry mounts. I'll need to order the 5/16 Allen head bolts. Any
update on the Inner cooler modification? No real hurry just checking
on it.
Mike C
I am thinking a 5/16 th nut plate inside the bracket is the way to
go. Make sure you get a drill head bolt.
I'll get around to that but right now things are getting crazy with
ignition systems. I made the mistake of showing it to some of my hot
rod friends :) They want it bad :) That is a huge market.
Paul Lamar
Hey Paul, I'm still sanding on the bottom of the plane but I was
looking at the Motor mount set up picture on your web site (see
attached) and it looks like there is supposed to be a side brace on
the bottom to keep it all from swaying? Is that not needed?
Mike C
Yes it is needed but your rubber bushings are mounted too high to do
it that way. They would pass through the oil pan. We mounted them
high so the fore and aft tubes would clear the turbo exhaust
manifold.
You must go outboard with two (if possible, one will work) 1/2 inch
4130 tube links to the back of the spar off the bottom of the steel
rubber bushing holders. The one on the side of the turbo must clear
the turbo of course. Use 5/16 rod ends. These links will be in
tension if two are used. If carefully positioned up and down on the
spare they will remain in the faring.
Use .062 4130 steel brackets epoxied to the back of the spare with
long 3/16 ss pop rivets holding them on until the epoxy cures. Epoxy
is good for 3000 pounds per square in shear. If the bracket is one
inch high and two inches wide that is 6000 pounds shear load not
counting the four 3/16 SS pop rivets. A factor of safety of at least
6.
Don't use aluminum brackets as epoxy will not adhere to the aluminum
unless the aluminum is first prepped with a West Marine prepping
kit.
How thick is the spar shear web or how many layers of glass cloth?
Paul Lamar
Hey Paul could you burn me a CD of the final Rhino model of the
installation and drop it in the mail to me?
Mike Collier
Native Rhino format or IGES?
I might be able to email the zipped iges if you have a private
email address.
Also it might be quicker to upload it to the web site in IGES form.
That way you can down load it from there.
Paul Lamar
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