there is the shaft before splines and treads
JEAN PRUDHOMME
Hi Jean,
Looking at the “flange” end of your shaft, it might be nice to taper the
splines similar to a Hirth coupling, since you will be maintaining a
‘pressure fit’ of the flange in place with your large screw-on nut. With
tapered splines, there would be NO slop or backlash in that connection.
Of course, it would be a lot more expensive to make! Maybe you or
another person smarter than I can educate me if this concept is not what
I think it to be.
Gene Kahn
The prop flange is from Durango front wheel bearing hub which I removed
the trust roller bearing and the cage, this hub have already is own
spline but a taper of 30 degrees as been done by the factory, with the
high tensile strength screw from truck stub and appropriate torque
wrench, the shaft will be very tight to the flange and no tendency of
any play between the splines but it is very important the splines have
to be tight machined and the shaft heat treated at 60 Rockwell hardness.
After the first set up I will look to have the shaft made in one piece
from real wheel axle company which I guess it will be over $600.00 plus,
but with inside drilling it will be lighter and stronger
JEAN PRUDHOMME
Gene he might try a few set screws as Paul has illustrated if there is
any doubt.
Milo
The Rotary Engine News Letter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site.
http:www.rotaryeng.net
You Tube
http:tinyurl.combeqqxas
Copyright 1998-2014 All world wide rights reserved.