there is the shaft before splines and treads


JEAN PRUDHOMME

Hi Jean,

Looking at the “flange” end of your shaft, it might be nice to taper
the splines similar to a Hirth coupling, since you will be
maintaining a ‘pressure fit’ of the flange in place with your large
screw-on nut. With tapered splines, there would be NO slop or
backlash in that connection. Of course, it would be a lot more
expensive to make! Maybe you or another person smarter than I can
educate me if this concept is not what I think it to be.

Gene Kahn


The prop flange is from Durango front wheel bearing hub which I
removed the trust roller bearing and the cage, this hub have already
is own spline but a taper of 30 degrees as been done by the factory,
with the high tensile strength screw from truck stub and appropriate
torque wrench, the shaft will be very tight to the flange and no
tendency of any play between the splines but it is very important the
splines have to be tight machined and the shaft heat treated at 60
Rockwell hardness. After the first set up I will look to have the
shaft made in one piece from real wheel axle company which I guess it
will be over $600.00 plus, but with inside drilling it will be
lighter and stronger



JEAN PRUDHOMME

Gene he might try a few set screws as Paul has illustrated if there
is any doubt.

Milo



I WILL USE 4 SET SCREW ON THE FRONT HOUSING TO HOLD THE FRONT BEARING.
THE HOUSING HAVE ALREADY 4 HOLES AT CERTAIN LOCATION PLUS I DO HAVE ENOUGHT SPACE TO INSTALL A FRONT SEAL.
I USE ALREADY A SEAL BEARING FOR THE FRONT AND AN OPEN ONE FOR THE BACK FOR OIL CIRCULATION AND BETTER LUBRIFICATION.

I BOUGHT AN INDEXT TABLE TO MACHINE THE SPLINES MYSELF TO GET A BETTER TIGHT FIT .
I SEARCHING TO BY A MILLING MACHINE AND THEY HAVE GOOD ONE NEW FOR ABOUT $1500 AND I FIGURE OUT IT WILL COST ME MORE TO GET ALL MACHINING BY OTHERS AND I WILL HAVE A BETTER CONTROL BY DOING MYSELF.




JEAN PRUDHOMME






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